Central America - Nicaragua

Early rise as I'd heard the long distance bus to Nicaragua leaves at 9am. Bidding farewell to my $4 cell for the night (54-46 was my number)I caught a taxi (an extortionate $3) to the Tica bus terminal (Tica buses is a bus service that runs the whole length of Central America so chose this reputable company to make up some mileage) and bought my 9.30 ticket to Managua (Nicaragua's capital) in Nicaragua for $20. The journey was smooth and chilled until it reached the Honduran/ Nicaraguan border at 12 lunchtime. There was a long line of trucks waiting to pass customs so everyone got off the bus and went to sit in a small border cafe for a few hours.

There are so many more beggars and cheeky kids here than other borders and they follow you everywhere asking for money or commission (for what I'd ask them in broken Spanish and they'd say 'for helping you'). I saw a couple of little rascals grab a day pack a girl was carrying and hang on for dear life. They only let go when she screamed so loud and high pitched that even the border guards finally took notice. Also, money changers are in abundance here walking around with huge wads of cash. Most of the time they offer pretty bad rates and after checking at the border's only bank it seems the bank is best..so that's where I exchanged all my Umpa Lumpa's to the new currency to get used to..the Nicaraguan 'Cordoba'. The charge for entering Nicaragua was $8.

I'm a bit gutted that all the different Central American countries don't stamp the passports..I wanted to have a stamp for each. What they do instead is when you enter any Central American country they give you a generic 3 month stamp for all the countries within their union (doh). Nicaragua is looking quite different to Honduras from my bus window...slightly greener and flatter but with beautiful green hills in the distance.

This is a big Volcano area so more Volcano climbing is on the cards. The cars all seem to be newer here too and the people friendlier than Guate and Honduras (that's enough of my broad and sweeping generalisations for now until I actually stay here for a while). Spirits on the bus were good and there was a good mix of travelers on board (an old gent from Hounslow with his German buddy, a young Croydon lad who drove me mad by spitting on me while he talked (an absolute nightmare when everyone went to the cafe...I had more food on my face than on his plate by the end of a short chat..and highly embarrassing (I later on told the other backpackers that Croydon wasn't really in London and only just about in England), a swedish couple and a cool Canadian couple). Arriving in the Nicaraguan capital called Managua at 6pm and being the first out of the bus terminal (the joys of small and light travel) I was the first person to feel the brunt of the Hotel touts. They were like a plague of shouting and pulling locusts and even though I'd picked and walked to my hotel just round the corner two of them followed me in and pretended they'd brought me there. Not only did the cheeky scamps ask me for money (while they were standing in my room) but also the hotel manager (she swiftly told them to piss off).

Hotel was $10 for the night..including a luxury I haven't had for a while...a TV. Tonight was cinema night so me and Seungmi got a taxi to the local cinema and saw The Invasion. Pretty poor to be honest..the 70's version titled Invasion of the Body Snatchers with Donald Sutherland (I think it was him) was way better and scarier without the hollywood ending.

Me and Seungmi, coming from big cities we weren't really that keen on staying in other cities so after spending the night in Managua we caught a taxi to the 2nd class bus terminal just on the outskirts ($4) and then haggled with a minibus tout over the $1.50 ticket price to Granada (I knew very well it should be $1). Eventually after agreeing on $1 and jumping in the bus started off at a hair raising speed. Arrived In Granada at lunchtime and immediately liked the place.

It was what I had hoped Antigua would be like; atmospheric, not many tourists (no chance of that in Antigua) and charm. Settled at a budget hotel call Hospice Cordoza ($8 a night) and went in search of cheap grub. As I always do I walked a bit out of the centre and had some local food (pasta with salsa for $3). Had a walk around town and plotted in the main plaza for an ice cream and a chill. Today was also chores day..laundry was now an emergency.

As while I was unpacking some gear from my pack in my cell 2 nights ago, a humongous cockroach (nearly as big as a cat...well not quite) jumped out of it and ran up my arm. Course I jumped and hopped around like a lunatic and for hours afterwards if anything touched me, like a curtain it made me jump. Walked around the local market a bit to see if I could get some disinfectant but the best I could get was normal washing powder.

That afternoon everything (including my pack) was scrubbed clean and smelt good (before this everything had the scent of marathon runners socks and a touch of gorgonzola). Evening was spent lounging around the main plaza and watching the people go by. Nicaragua is now my favourite Central American country. The people are much poorer than anywhere else in these parts but are a ton for friendly. The beggars and general 'Can you give me?' mentality is at least honest. There are far less tourists here than I've seen which makes it much more interesting (well for me anyway) and the country is beautiful from what I've seen so far.

Even though I really liked Granada I craved some island life (the weather was beautiful and swimming in freshwater beckoned) so after some blogging and email checking I hauled myself and my fresh and smelling of roses with a hint of gorgonzola pack down to the boat dock. Just made it in time for the daily 2pm ferry to Ometepe. Had a choice between 1st class (75 cordoba's ($5)) or 2nd (25 c's ($1.50)). Of course we went for 2nd and enjoyed a 4 hour boat ride from heaven (the water on the lake was as smooth as glass).

Had to endure Rush Hour 3 and a totally pants film called Honor (about a martial arts kid gone bad). Arrived in Puerto de Gracias (north part of the island) at night and after exiting the ports gates was met with a flurry of pickup truck touts and drivers all plying their transport. Chose one and was quickly hauled onto the back and after they hauled another 2 people on it sped off. I didn't have time to ask where it was going.

The ride was rough and bumpy and not being on the back of a pickup for a while I forgot its always good practice to stay as low as possible (tree branches were pounding the top of my head). Coming into town was lucky enough to witness a completely lashed horse rider fall off his horse. In true cowboy style he quickly got onto his feet, checked around to see if anyone saw it and then chastised the horse (maybe it was the horse that was drunk).

Fortunately the destination was as I'd predicted..a hotel in the main town of Altagracia. It was a nice hotel called hotel Castillo and cheap at $6 a night. After a late dinner and shower me and Seungmi just hung out (literally) in a hammock on the balcony and watched the sleepy town while I did some blog updates.

The plan for today was a 6am and 5 hour hike up the Volcan Concepcion but this was scuppered with heavy clouds so me and Seungmi just relaxed around the hotel in the morning and chatted to two other backpackers (Swiss diving instructor called Chris and a Californian chap called Norv who used to work at HP so we both had a little moan about working in big corporations). After lunch we went for a long walk to the closest lake beach to here called Punta Taguizapa. It was a pretty spot with slightly ugly volcanic black sand but the view was great. Had the usual long dip and splash around and had the whole place to myself (bliss). Saw some beautiful birds (feathered) sharing the water with me; some tiny bright yellow and blue ones, some kind of heron and a kind of falcon hovering above.

The walk to and from the beach was nice..walking between huge banana plantations. Most of the people on the walk greeted us with the usual friendly greetings. Back at the hotel for the evening we were trapped in my room because a conference was going on in the hotel entrance, so just chilled on the hammock supping on a few beers I had stashed away and had an early night. Tomorrow an early rise and serious hike up the Volcano Concepcion (which had its last eruption in 1954).

Up at the crack of dawn (literally) then realising the cloud around the volcano pretty much obscured any potential view we decided to cancel the hike and instead head around the island for a possible hike up Volcan Maderas instead (this volcanoe seems more appealing to me because its crater is also a lake and the potential for swimming in a volcano is too great to be missed. The view from there is also meant to be incredible). Caught the local chicken bus to Balgues (nearest town to the volcano)(50c for a 1 hour ride).

The roads were some of the worst I've ever seen and experienced (apart from crater roads in Mozambique) and my head nearly hit the ceiling at one point (mighty tricky considering I'm quite a small fellah). From Balgues it was a slightly tough but scenic 1 km walk (saw some beautiful parrots flying around and squawking at me and every few steps the trees would rustle and sway from the abundance of Howler monkeys) to the only lodgings in the area, Finca Magdalena.

It was too late in the day to start the 7 hour hike up the volcano Maderas so I sorted out my lodgings there first ($6 a night) and then had a scrumptious lunch of spaghetti with beef strips ($2.50)(lunch was nearly spoiled when a million fly's descended on my pasta..so lunch had to be eaten one handed and at the same time flailing my other arm around wildly. I must have looked like a nutter). Then me and Seungmi watched the hundreds of wild birds, butterflies and monkeys from a hammock slung onto a patio. The view was just plain gorgeous with the lake stretching for miles and the perfectly formed cone shape of volcano Concepcion with a permanent ring of cloud at the top (bliss).

The hammock is where I stayed for most of the day, finishing my current book; Jeff Long's Year Zero (bit rough round the edges but a good apocalyptic story...need to find a book swap now). Also did some planning for when we get to Costa Rica and Panama. While I was lounging on the hammock I heard a loud shriek from the bathrooms (quite close) so everyone rushed in to check what was going on. A Kiwi girl was apparently enjoying a refreshing shower when she felt something other than water fall on her head and onto the floor. It was a baby Tarantula that must have been walking around the high ceilings beams. Course everyone was well nervous in the bathrooms after that (especially the few English that are here as we aren't used to spiders in bathrooms).

Nearly let out a shriek of my own later on in the shower..when I went to roll up my trousers after drying off I felt something touch my back. After jumping up in the air I realised it was just my towel hanging on the door (what a wooss).

The evening was as relaxed as the day enjoying a delicious dinner a few beers and a hammock. Tomorrow's going to be a tough walk up the volcano (hope we can get a swim in up there..or will it be too cold?) The thought dawned on me today that I may be in Columbia or Venezuela for Xmas (could be a blinder but will miss the cold weather...yes, I like the cold).

We had planned to only stay on the island for a few days but this place is just too special to leave so the plan for the next week is 4 more days on Ometepe island (really want to find this island of monkeys) then get the boat to San Carlos (near the Costa Rican border). From there its into Costa Rica for some more volcano exploring and a visit to the famous cloud forests where I can fly through the forest on a Sky Trek zip wire (Sweet Jesus...hope my vertigo doesn't kick in).

Early wake up today as it was Volcano hike day. At 6.30am had a hearty omelet and toast breakfast ($2) and then we met the guide for today's hike ($15 for the day). There were just me, Seungmi and the guide going today. The walk started out fairly easy passing coffee, bean and cocoa plantations (as well as the odd Howler monkey screaming at us). Then the route become harder and harder with slippery rocks and muddy patches everywhere and a very narrow pathway going through tropical forest. Everyone was slipping and sliding everywhere (really tough sweat inducing climbing).

After reaching the 2 km mark the landscape started changing to tropical cloud forest with short trees, colourful flowers and a permanent mist everywhere. The hike became steeper and steeper at this point and it was now that we realised the Seungmi didn't have proper walking shoes but just flat sneakers. She had a really hard time slipping dangerously on the rocks (there are regular cases of broken bones on this slippery trail) and on a few occasions fell on her back nearly cracking her head on rocks. After we reached the 4km mark (1 km short of the summit) we all voted to go back down (her safety was more important than a hike). Our guide Freddie had stressed that the return hike was even more dangerous due to the steepness and descent speed so the further we went up the more dangerous it was for her coming down.

Visibility was pretty bad as well so we wouldn't have seen anything at the top anyway. A pretty disappointed group then made the treacherous walk down. It really was tough going down with the slippery rocks not providing any foot support and the Howler and White faced monkeys laughing at us all the way. The hike was really beautiful anyway so in all it was worth it. As well as the monkeys I saw some Armadillo's, loads of colourful and noisy birds, and 3 different types of lizards. Also the plants and flowers were really beautiful.

Reaching the haven of the hotel at the bottom totally exhausted a round of well deserved beers and cokes were ordered. My legs were covered in volcanic mud up to my knees and most of my kit was splattered with mud and insects. After a swift cleanup operation I crashed in a hammock and slept. Woke up late at night and just had time to get some dinner and a few beers in. We chatted to a Swedish couple (Matheus and Christina) for most of the night and then crashed out.

Could barely get myself out of bed due to exhausted legs (they were suffering big time) but hauled myself to the breakfast area for some much needed nourishment. After a quiet walk around the beautiful gardens here in between breakfast and lunch it was time to bid a sad farewell to this lovely spot. So at 1pm I set off for the 1 km walk down to the main road in these parts (I use the word road very loosely because all it is really is a flat line of dirt). The chicken bus to Santa Cruz finally arrived at 2.30 (only 30 minutes late so pretty good) and after a 1 hour bumpy ride listening to some classic and new smoochy Latino pop (usually a female vocalist singing about the rascals that are their fellah's) I arrived in the 5 house village of Santa Cruz.

Had to wait another 30 minutes but then got on another packed bus (funny enough they played exactly the same tunes) to Merida. After a swift look around this small village we realised there wasn't much in the way of budget accommodation (there was a small restaurant that had 2 rooms at $3 a night but it was full) so we booked into a place called the Hacienda Merida. Really nice location on the lake with hammocks, restaurant and wooden buildings. The place was a bit pricey but me, Seungmi and the Swedes got a small discount to share a room for $6 each. Arrived at sunset so enjoyed a well deserved litre bottle of beer (a hefty $2) and watched the sun go down over the lake from a small jetty (heaven).

Had a long chat with Matheus (a Swedish government water engineer who was also heavily into Role playing games when he was younger..bit like myself) over a few beers. After checking the extortionate prices at the hotel for dinner it was decided to venture out into the village where I found the only other restaurant which had food for literally half the price (have noticed that all tourist places charge a 15% tax on everything). Turns out Christina is a 3rd Dan in Ju Jitsu and Matheus is a brown belt so for most of the night we chatted about martial arts (it was inconclusively voted that a Ju Jitsu black belt would beat a Kick boxing blackbelt...hmmmm).

Both are well fascinated with my traveling small and light option and are always asking me what I have in my pack (even down to the medical kit).

Woke up quite early today as we were heading off for some hiking (with Matheus and Christina), to what was supposedly a short 1.5 hour hike to the San Ramon waterfall. So after a proper hikers breakfast of porridge and fruit (damned pricey at $2.50...but damned tasty too) and armed with 1.5 litres of water, my camera and swimming stuff (very optimistic there) we headed off at 10am.

1 hour of walking along the main dusty road with numerous little Nicaraguan scamps begging for a dollar and then pretending to cry (I nearly pulled an oscar out of my bag) I reached the start of the hike which was the Biological research centre. Quite a fancy complex of new buildings. Realising it would be at least 2 hours until I get some lunch in me I had a bite there..a bit pricey but tasty.

Then started the slow ascent of the south-west slopes of Volcano Maderas. The first 1 km was fairly easy going on a wide path but then it got steeper and steeper and more rocky. Then after the 3 km mark and 2 hours later I started to wonder why I hadn't reached the waterfall yet. The path now went through dry forest (very beautiful and saw loads of lizards and heard some Howler monkeys) and then I met some other hikers who told me there had been a landslide a week earlier so the falls were harder to get to. Not disconcerted at all I carried on and ploughed through the rubble of the landslide (covering what used to be a river) and finally after 3 hours reached the waterfall.

It was lovely but not as spectacular as I expected. It was very high but only enough water for a quick cold shower. After watching the waterfall and surroundings for a while I realised it was 4pm and only about 1 hour left of daylight so as quick as a ferret on speed we clambered back through the rubble and back down the side of the volcano in record time. On the way back down I met an unfortunate American who'd forgotten his camera by the falls and was actually running up the volcano to get there before dark. Arrived at the main road exhausted and on my last drop of water..so my prayers were answered when the last bus of the day streaked passed and I managed to stop it.

The bus was full of local chicks all dressed up and heading to Altagracia for some boogying and yet I still fell asleep (shame on me with a capital Shay) and nearly missed my stop. After showering I went off to buy some cigs at the local restaurant/ shop (cigs are well cheap here..a pack of 20 'Belmonts' cost $1.20..60 pence, which doesn't help the effort to give up smoking at all) and as usual the place was empty. Instead of customers sitting around, the owners whole family were gathered around whilst strumming on guitars and singing. I was bullied into joining in with the chorus and then I gave them a hearty applause. Noticed a funny thing on the menu (an A3 sheet of paper taped to the wall); the prices of chicken and beef had been changed from 35 to 40 Cordoba's (quite obviously done in a big red marker pen) which was coincidentally what me and the Swedes ate for dinner last night. Dinner and beers followed as myself and the Swedes celebrated our small ascent.

Then went to bed well tired and dreaming of chocolate (I've craved chocolate since the failed volcano hike).

Today was supposed to be our last day here at the lakeside paradise and I was going to take the afternoon bus to Altagracia, from where I take a ferry the next morning at 6am towards Costa Rica. Unfortunately the ferry time wasn't at 6am but rather 6pm (the manager at the Altagracia hotel said 6am) so I had to stay another night here (not a bad thing really). This morning had to bid farewell to yet more great people I've met during my travels. Matheus and Christina had a boat to catch today. Who knows we may meet again in South America somewhere.

After breakfast me and Seungmi hired a kayak for a few hours and went floating around the lake. More specifically we were looking for Monkey Island. It was visible from the hotel but I wanted to see the few monkeys that lived there. It was a tiny island (you could walk across it in 10 seconds) with about 4 monkeys who were prone to jumping on the kayaks (and apparently biting people). I sort of kept my distance and went around them wondering if they were so vicious because they just wanted to escape the boredom of the island. Kayaking back to shore was well tough as heavy winds just set in and kept pushing me back towards the monkeys (was I destined to live on the tiny island with them?). Eventually made it back and after lunch went for a good long swim and a chill on the peer.

Chilled all afternoon reading, swimming and talking to a few backpackers. Saw a sight that made me feel terrible on my way back to the hotel room; a puppy I had seen frolicking around for a few days (skinny as a rake) was foaming at the mouth and walking erratically in circles and growling (I guess it may be rabies). Just 2 nights ago I had sneaked him some of my rice dinner to fatten him up a bit. I doubt whether he'll make it in the next few days.

In the late afternoon I made the usual failed attempt to upload my blog (internet's too slow and I couldn't load my mobile software)..gave that up and went to my new cheap favourite restaurant for an early dinner. I ordered pasta and salad tonight just as a test to see if they would put the prices up for that as well. Was a good meal at $1.50 (half the hotel price). Very relaxed sunday night of sitting on the jetty and doing some star gazing. The stars and sky seem so much bigger here than in England so it made for some fascinating watching. Wish I knew a bit more about the stars to be able to distinguish them as I travel to different continents.

Had pretty much the whole day to chill for the upcoming journey to Costa Rica so took it nice and easy. Made use of the facilities at the hotel; internet, swimming in the lake, lots of tea and then hammock time (don't touch this...). Went to pay our bill and then realised we didn't have enough cash on us (thought I had enough) and the only place that had an ATM machine on the island was 2 hours bus ride away (meaning I'd miss my boat for today). Luckily they accept Paypal payments for half the bill so the day was saved (happy days).

At 3.15 we had to tear myself away from the hammock and after bidding an adios to the friendly staff at the hotel we waited by the main road armed with a bottle of coke (whilst waiting I checked the label and saw that this one was made in 2001..can coke last that long, or more importantly can the plastic bottle last the coke?) and a bag of bread for the long trip ahead. Right on time the bus picked me up at 3.30 and after 50 minutes of bumping and bum cheek pulverising roads we arrived back in Altagracia. Had just enough time to grab a quick bite of chicken and chips ($2.50) and then kicked myself for being so stupid (eating a hearty greasy meal before a 10 hour boat trip isn't very wise if the water's rough).

After just finishing the meal a desperate looking fellah came up to me because he and his girlfriend only had enough money for the ferry ($1.50) but had some Euro's. They desperately wanted to change them to get across to Costa Rica. Unfortunately I was well short on cash too so couldn't help them (I had just enough to get the ferry, eat something cheap and pay any border charges ($18 to be precise). The best I could do was lend them a few dollars for food on the ferry. Queuing for the ferry was a shambles so by the time I actually bought my ticket and got on the ferry there was no space.

The ever helpful seating organiser shouted at sneaky Nicaraguans who were taking up 2 seats instead of the one and I managed to squeeze between someone. Entertainment for the trip was a showing of Rambo 1 (I think this may be the 3rd time I've seen it on this trip). The atmosphere in 2nd class was really good, almost like being in a mobile market; people sprawled on the floor, a small shop selling food and snacks a few people walking around selling stuff (one bloke was selling a lighter that had a built in torch...I couldn't resist for 45c). By 12 I was starting to regret not getting a first class ticket (2nd class $1.50, 1st class $3.50) as sleeping was almost impossible on the minimally padded seats.

Rumours were coming down from the 1st class area of cushioned reclining seats, free foot and head massages, stewardesses, free drinks and a swimming pool (all wicked lies of course). Desperation to sleep overtook so I just sneaked on the floor under the seat and tried to get as comfy as possible with feet kicking me, boxes digging into my back and after hearing a strange sound near my ears realised I was sleeping with a chicken next to my head. Me and the chicken ended up getting a few hours kip.

Every 3 hours the ferry would dock and a few people would disembark and even more would get on. The shouting seating manager (big fellah, not to be trifled with) chastised people who were taking up too much space (me included) and miraculously everyone got a seat. Finally to everyone's relief we arrived in San Carlos at 5.30 am (pitch black). Me, Seungmi and the really nice couple Anne-Marie (Irish girl who comes from near Doneghal but lived in Madrid for the last 5 years) and Antoine (French fellah who comes from Spain) hooked up with a few other backpackers (funny Canadian fellah who is an expert in worldwide toilet habits), a Polish fellah and an Aussie bloke) and we all plotted in the town square waiting for the first boat down the Rio Frio to Los Chiles. Heard a scary story about a girl who recently developed a hearing problem. After seeing the doctor it seems a cockroach had crawled into her ear. All the doctor could do was tell her to put alcohol in the ear which would kill it and eventually fall out (holy shit!!). Finally after dozing a few times in the town square the Nicaraguan immigration office opened at 9am. Passports were stamped and a $2 exit fee was charged.

Then onto a motor boat for the beautiful ride down the Rio Frio. Saw some beautiful bird life (kingfishers, skinny long-legged birds, tiny colourful ones), some turtles, loads of monkeys screaming from the branches and even an alligator sunning on a bank. At one point the boat stopped to pick up some sticks which were then used to hoist a Costa Rican flag (apparently boats get turned back from Costa Rica without a flag on the boat). After the 1 hour boat ride we finally reached Los Chiles and went through the usual passport checks (surprisingly I didn't have to pay for entry). Finally we were in Costa Rica (Hurrah) but feeling sad that I'd left Nicaragua..really liked it allot.

As a treat we had a slap up lunch of burger and chips ($2). Next was a 2 hour bus ride to Flores (slept most of the journey) and then caught another bus to Fortuna. Arrived there at 7pm and after hunting down a cheapish hotel for $15 (most budget places were full...other hotels were charging $40 a night) had a quick cleanup and then straight out to dinner with Anne-Marie and Antoine. Friendliest people I've met on this trip so far..really good people. By 9pm we could hardly keep our eyes open and as soon as we got back to the hotel I collapsed on the bed and dreamt about a boat full of chickens complaining that I was taking up too much space (some form of revenge because I've been eating allot of chicken lately?).