South America - Chile

Slept like a log and with hope of my card working headed to the bank. Bless Visa's cotton socks, it worked. Out of curiosity and the fact that I'd had a tooth ache for the last few days I checked a recommended dentist. For the measly price of 50 quid I could get 3 cavities fixed, 2 fillings and my teeth lasered (cheap as...well, a chip). How could I resist. I tried to post some gifts for back home but when they demanded $60 for a few light boxes I had to control the swearing side of my brain. Looks like as ever I'm destined to carry post with me...maybe forever.

Two hours later with bright white teeth and no more tooth pain I headed back to the hotel, grabbed my pack and headed to the bus terminal. Gangs of drivers wait there for people wanting to cross the border easily and I was whisked off into a shared taxi ($5 each) and then onto the border. It all went well until the Chilean customs discovered 2 cute Chilean girls in the taxi were carrying 30 illegal film copies so for a whole hour the car and everyone's luggage was searched thoroughly (dammit!...but luckily I wasn't carrying). Arrived in Arica (Chile) at 3pm and after asking around for buses realised I was way too early. All buses to my next destination of San Pedro de Atecama only leave at 10pm (shit).

So settled down for a long, long wait and did some blogging, writing and reading. At the punctual time of 9.45pm I started queuing and when a bus assistant asked me what I was doing here I mentioned my 10pm bus. He laughed slightly and then helpfully informed me that Chile is 1 hour ahead of Peru (crap). After waiting for 7 hours I miss my bus...unbelievable. Luckily there was one available bus with another company and after pleading my case they gave me a discount on the ticket. In the end I pretty much paid for 2 tickets...what a waste...and what a donut I am!

Arrived in the sweltering heat of San Pedro at 10.30am. What a dry and dusty place this is. Right in the middle of desert with dust flying everywhere. After walking around looking for a cheap place to stay (not easily found here...or in Chile I guess) I found a place on the outskirts of town for $8 a night. San Pedro is a really charming dusty town. Ok, there are a lot of tourists here but not that bad and the charm of the place outweighs that.

Walked around a bit and tried to get money out for my onward bus ticket to Santiago. Well, just typical. Both (the only 2 in town) ATM machines said my card was invalid. One of my pre-planned precautions for such an occasion before I left England was to sow some emergency cash into the belt of my pack so out came the 20 quid, straight to the bus company and with ticket in hand I went for a wander. The main reason I came here was to see the beautiful night sky (especially beautiful here) with a French astrological expert. Sods law he has closed shop for 5 days as its full moon. Instead made my own tour buying a bottle of wine and wandering out of town with some other hostellers to do hours and hours of start gazing. What a marvelous sight of the huge open sky. I plan to do exactly the same tomorrow night.

Well, the plan for the next week is an unusual one. I have only 4 more days until I fly from Santiago, Chile to New Zealand (April 21st). From there I'm going to catch the cheapest flight and closest destination to a place for 2 weeks of relaxation, beach and peace. Blogging will be stopped for those two weeks to give my fingers, brain and laptop a hard earned break. Its hard to believe I'm sure but constantly being on the move on buses, arguing with taxi drivers, touts and seeing too many good things can leave you jaded. It will be time to just do absolutely nothing except swim, drink beer and frolic on the beach (bliss). When I arrive at my paradise I'll upload the last 4 days of South America and then chill.

This morning was blog writing time. So armed with the laptop, a bottle of water, 20 Kent's and a hammock I set to work ploughing through 3 weeks of blogging. The only interruption (which was a pretty mammoth one) was when a gang of kittens pounced on the hammock (clinging to the underside of not only the hammock but my back) and using my body as leverage propelled themselves to the top of the hammock. Much shouting and falling out of the hammock ensued whilst the sympathetic hostel owner and family laughed themselves to bits (bastards). For me it felt like I was dying from death of a thousand cuts...where the hell are all the wild dogs when you actually need them.

My main mission here in San Pedro was to go on a star gazing tour with a company run by an amiable French fellah. Well, it seems that not only are the cats against me here but also the solar system...it being full moon at the moment there were no tours for 5 days. The next best thing for me was a tour to Lunar Valley. $10 later and at 3pm me and the usual suspects of tourists set off in a minibus. The five photo stops on the way were impressive but when at 6pm we arrived at Lunar Valley it was breathtaking.

As the sun dipped and the moon came out in all its full glory, the colours along the sand dunes and rusty coloured mountains was astonishing. Every 10 minutes the colours would change. As usual on these tours its a good opportunity to meet and chat with some interesting people from all over the world. I immediately liked Enrique and his gorgeous wife Daliana..both from Mexico City.

The whole minibus ride we were being shushed by others for talking too much (I think they were just jealous because none of the others had been to Mexico). It was in fact Enrique's 34th birthday today and by coincidence I had come armed with a bottle of Chile's finest vino. This was promptly popped open and with perfect timing the stars came out. Much more talking about Mexico, work (he works in IT too), relationships and footie went on. Quite tipsy the three of us headed back to the minibus where everyone was waiting impatiently to leave.

Back in San Pedro I said my farewells to a really nice couple (they were off to book a night bus to Bolivia) and I bought myself another bottle of the finest and heading back to the hostel went to recruit potential star gazers. With some success and finding a hill on the outskirts of town the views of the night sky couldn't be matched and a good night was had (8 hours of star gazing...wow).

At 4am and pretty much frozen to the bone we headed back to the hostel and lit a fire in the courtyard. Clambering into the hammock we all chilled and did more gazing. Now, being pretty lashed at the time I totally forgot about the killer kittens from hell so when I heard a loud meeeeeeeouw and felt the claws of death on my back again I gave up for the night and headed to the sanctuary of my room.

Tonight my 24 hour bus to Santiago leaves at 7.30pm and due to a sore head (and back for that matter) I had a late lie in. Early afternoon I avoided the scorching daytime heat of the desert and did some internet stuff at the hostel. Walked into town for a cheap lunch after which I returned to the hostel armed with a hefty stick (notching Catscalebar into it) and lounged in the hammock, reading and occasionally gazing at the lovely landscape. The cats (4 this time...its a popular gang this one) tried it on again but my stick waving skills proved too much for them.

Chatted to a Scottish couple at the hostel. Main topic was their lack of Spanish (even after 3 months) and how unsympathetic the Chileans were (I was pretty annoyed with the whole discussion...make an effort to learn the language...bloody hell!) so said ciao and headed off for my night bus.

The bus journey had one incident of excitement worth mentioning. It happened during a dinner stop. This is the first time in my whole trip where traveling light and leaving my pack under the seat had backfired. Having a swift ciggy outside the driver approached me and in hushed tones told me to keep all my valuables on me at all times. Taking note of this advise I immediately went back to my seat to check my bag. Lo and behold when I got there my pack was wide open and most of its contents scattered on the floor. Just as well I securely padlocked the main compartment (laptop, camera etc.).

All that was missing really was a few packs of Kent but even so, using my years of studying the Inspector Cleauseau theory of deduction I suspected everyone...but suspected no one. Sleep was uneasy this night.

Most of the days bus ride was spent staring at the desolate Chilean countryside (desert, sand and rocks) pondering my time in the America's. I can't believe how quickly these past nine months have gone and also how long I have over stayed here. The original plan was just for 6 months here but Colombia and Mexico just hooked me, reeled me in and kept me for itself. Argentina surprised me as well and took a lot more of my time. At the end of this Latin American chapter I'm going to summarise each country, my feelings for it and also answer the usual questions I get asked...favourite country? (well, you wouldn't have to be a genius to work that one out)...where did I not like etc?

A mini disaster struck again on this jinxed bus ride when a new passenger and his gang of minions got on. He had the same seat number as me. Problem was, my ticket had the wrong date on it. The fool at the San Pedro bus office had dated the ticket for the 16th (the day before I even arrived there I might add...what a prize fool). Much jeering and good natured verbal abuse followed as the gang tried their best to get me into trouble and evict me from their pals seat. Telling them to fuck off a few times did the trick (and caused more jeering). Eventually sense prevailed and after a stop at a major town the fellah got another seat.

Arrived in Santiago at 6pm (the Tur-Bus company slogan of 'Punctuality is our priority' was more than true (hmm, where does safety come into it then?). First impressions of Santiago were of a very modern and bustling city. Got a bus to the centre of town and booked into a hostel (next to the coolly named Plaza Los Heroes. On settling into the dorm room, the only other occupant (a middle aged flower child of the tree hugging variety) asked me to shush and be quiet as she was meditating in bed. Biting my tongue in earnest I promptly asked reception for a friendlier room. Went out for a few calming bevies after the long bus ride and grabbed a cheap dinner (hard to come by in Chile...I tell you).

Watched a bit of TV at the hostel then hit the sack. Last day in South America tomorrow...did I mention I'm feeling those low down dirty leaving blues?

Early start today and with a good, free (always the best) slap up brekkie I was powered up for a whirlwind tour of Santiago. But first some souvenirs to post. Finding post offices and actually posting things has been the bane of my life in Latin America and today was no different. After an hour of false directions I finally found it but there happened to be a military procession directly in front of the building so wasn't allowed near it. Enjoyed the procession in any case and noticed the Chilean military helmets looked unerringly similar to WW2 Nazi head gear (just a lighter shade of gray). I asked a stander by (military) if I could take some snaps and was told 'no' so just watched. Finally posted everything and at a third of the Peruvian rip off price.

Wandered around the centre going through the bustling Plaza de Armada and checked out its centre piece, the cathedral. Absolutely beautiful inside and out. Funny thing about cathedrals...whenever I visit stunning ones in Latin America I always get a slight stirring of theology in me (I suppose that's the point really) and feel pretty tranquil. The centre of Santiago was totally heaving with people . The people here are dressed a hell of a lot smarter than in any other Latino major city I've been to. I almost felt like a tramp walking about (mind you I did have a thick layer of Atecama desert sand on my clothes and shoes). Checked out a few shops but as is in keeping with Chilean prices everything is well priceeeeeeey (with a capital Pri). I don't get it really.

Ok, Chile is a nice country and all that but how can they justify these crazy prices. This could be why I haven't met as many travelers here as other countries.

Well, all packed and kind of ready to go I rolled up at the airport with many hours to spare. What a prize buffoon I am. I was told I should have picked up my paper ticket at the Qantas office (I was so used to e-tickets I didn't even think of paper tickets). To be fair when I checked my email from them it said in bold type...pick up the tickets. My fault. Got out my trusty laptop and skyped the Qantas office. Hopefully tomorrow will be lift off day. Slinked back to the bus and to the hostel (pretty much laughed at myself all the way).

With a renewed spring in my step after hearing my ticket may be ready today I ploughed through brekkie and got the Metro to the very distant Qantas office. As is always the way with bureaucracy and all kinds of paperwork here in Latin America things are never that simple. The girl helping me out said new tickets can only be issued in Buenos Aires (was she kidding!?).

So I had to personally call Qantas head office after which the girl grumpily agreed to issue the tickets. Four hours and a few lost hairs later I held what was now my round the world e-ticket. Messed around at the hostel and did a few small trips around town. Later on, leaving extra early (you never know) there was a sour taste in my mouth after a huge row with the previously friendly hostel worker who tried to charge me for hanging around (he said it was ok before).

Everything went smoothly at the airport and I got checked in all right. Standing outside having my last ciggy for a fair few hours (well...nearly 2 days including New Zealand time difference) I watched a policeman and his sniffer dog chatting and joking with cab drivers. They all seemed very uneasy, especially when the dog started sniffing them. Is he the most hated animal in the airport area? I think so.

Ok, so here's a review of the countries I traveled through in Latin America. They are obviously based on my experiences and point of view.

Mexico
Big, big country, very touristy and kind of expensive but the people are very friendly once they know you're not American and actually talk to you. Visiting small villages and towns reap the rewards here. The party culture is brilliant here and the Mexicans need no excuse to break out a bottle of Tequila or beer for a drink. Favourite places and memories; Copper Canyon Train, Zacatecas, Pacific beaches, Theatheuacan ruins, Mexico city. Best memory; Mexico city 15th birthday party...what a do! Worst memory; Stuck in a double header hurricane in La Paz. What a shit week that was.

Guatemala
Very different to what I expected. Most travelers I met warned me about the dangers here but didn't feel uneasy anywhere (well...Tikal changed that).The people don't seem friendly on the surface but they really are. The Tikal robbery kind of tainted my opinion but I still have some great memories of the place and it was cheap as chips. Favourite places and memories; Flores (swimming in the lake at sunset), Tikal (ironically also my worst memory) and San Pedro on Lake Atitlan.

Honduras
Spent most of my time here stuck on the supposedly tropical island of Utila so haven't got that much to say about Honduras. I kind of liked the Caribbean people and feel of the north and the diving was stunning. Favourite places and memories; Utila Worst memory; being stuck on the rain drenched island (Utila) in rainy season with no hope of leaving.

Nicaragua
Really loved this country. The people are hugely friendly, it is cheap and I didn't see that many travelers around. The volcanoes and landscape are stunning. Favourite memories and places; Lake Ometepe Worst memory; none.

Costa Rica
I didn't really take to Costa Rica as a lot of other people did. For me it lacked culture, was expensive and over-run with tourists (mainly Americans). Saying that, it is a beautiful country and the landscape is gorgeous. Favourite places and memories; Cloud Forest Worst memory; Saying goodbye to Seungmi and getting kidnapped in a taxi on the same night. What a night. This was a wake up call and good lesson for me.

Panama
I wish I stayed here longer and explored the tribal islands of the north but I was too keen to get to Colombia and getting stuck with the Swedish crack head didn't help matters. Panama was just a hopping point to Colombia for me so didn't get to see much here. Favourite places and memories; Panama city and the Canal Worst memory; Meeting and sticking with the crack head Swedish millionaire. Foolish fellah.

Colombia
(sigh) Colombia. Where do I begin. I just loved every minute I was there; the excitement , the friendly people (no...really ultra friendly), the beautiful sights...oh, did I mention the stunning girls (the most gorgeous in Latin America). Everything I did here was memorable and exciting. Originally I only planned for 3 weeks here (what a fool) but like most people that come here, I was sucked in...hook, line and sinker. I'm not ashamed to say this is the only country that made me blubber like a kid when I left. Favourite places and memories; ...every square inch of it, Cartagena, Taganga, Tyrona, Medellin, Cali (Salsa Festival), Bogota (Xmas and New Year), San Augustin, San Gil et al Worst memory; none.

Venezuela
Well, dare I say it. It's shit. I found the people unfriendly and its government a bunch of pompous eejits...as for Chavez, don't get me started. A lot of backpackers I met share the same opinion of Venezuela...a rare few loved it. Favourite places and memory; Angel Falls (shame I picked the wrong season to see them...so the mighty Angel Falls was but a trickle. All falls near them were amazing) and Merida.

Brazil
Ahhh, Brazil. It was pretty much everything I expected...and more. A massive country, expensive...but you don't feel too bad spending it here because its so lively, the people so friendly and they are always up for a laugh...and the girls...wow! I will be back here for sure and when I do I'll be armed with a smattering of Portuguese (or I'll just bring my mate Nuno). Favourite places and memories; Rio Carnival (fuck, what a great week that was), the Amazon (river and jungle), Isla Grande, Iguazu, Salvador and watching a great game of footie in Rio. Worst memory; Belem (what a shithole) and Sao Paulo.

Argentina
This was the country that surprised me the most. For some reason I kind of had low expectations when I arrived but it blew me away when I did get here. It was friendlier, cheaper and more beautiful than I could have imagined. Patagonia was just amazing...what a special place. A hikers paradise of such contrasting scenery and animals. Buenos Aires is the only city I could see myself living and working in, in Latin America. Favourite places and memories; Iguazu (stunning), Buenos Aires, El Chalten (Patagonia), Moreno Glacier, Salta and watching a lively game of footie in BA . Worst place Ushuaia town (but the penguins made up for it).

Bolivia
What a surreal place. I loved it. Mixed with the high altitudes, beautiful and extreme landscapes and culture it really is a dreamlike place...and cheap too. I so could have stayed here for longer but the Death Road incident kind of affected my judgement. Bolivia is most backpackers favourite country (well, the ones that haven't braved Colombia). Favourite places and memories; Potosi silver mine, Sala de Uyuni salt flats, La Paz and the prison visit (awesome). Worst place; Death Road and Copacobana (very disappointing place).

Peru
Peru was a little bit disappointing for me with the hordes and hordes of tourists everywhere (really put me off). But its still a gem and there is a reason so many tourists come here. Its culturally thick, has beautiful landscape and is relatively cheap. Favourite places; Arequipa, Colca Canyon, Cuzco, Machupicchu Worst place; Nazca (I didn't hate it but it was slightly disappointing).

Chile
I never planned to stay here more than a week. The Atecama desert and Santiago being my only stops. Entering Chile it all started badly for me and from then on my luck just vanished. The people seem friendly enough, the landscape's kind of repetitive in the north (the south being the gem) but...and a big but (no pun intended) it is really expensive here. Favourite places and memories; the San Pedro stars and in a way Santiago. Worst place; none (but thieves on buses and foolish backpackers who forget to pick up plane tickets were bad memories for me).

Favourite country; Colombia (no question)...Nicaragua comes in at 2nd place Worst country; Venezuela Best place; Machupicchu and Patagonia Worst place; San Jose city
Scariest memory; Krina riding over the cliff, Tikal robbery and taxi kidnapping
Happiest memory; climbing the Jaguar temple in Tikal with Seungmi Biggest surprise; an incident on a bus in Colombia (very few people know this story)
Friendliest people; Colombians and Nicaraguans
Best food; Argentina
Worst food: Bolivia (very dull food..but cheap as chips)
Best night out; Bogota (New Year) and the whole of Carnival week in Rio
Biggest disappointment; Angel Falls
Most expensive country; Chile and Brazil
Cheapest country; Bolivia
Un friendliest people; Venezuelans