North America - Mexico

Got the Greyhound from San Diego to Tijuana ($14 and 25 min's) and boy am I suffering a serious hangover. Not the best condition to take on this lively place of clubs, bars and debauchery. Arrived at the border and accidentally crossed over the into Mexico without even knowing it (well easy to cross from US to Mexico..no chance of that vice versa). I had to cross back over as I needed a tourist visa for my longish stay in Mexico ($34) and also had to hand my US visitors card to US officials. (not getting the visa at the border can cause problems with police if they stopped me). After much waiting and paperwork I was finally through and into Meeeeghico (well officially anyway) and following the throng of people leaving and going. I really felt like I was in Mexico now. The smells, colours and people all made it so. Wanted to take photos of the crowds but was warned off because it was the border area. It was quite late in the day so I settled for a mid-range hotel in the centre called Hotel El Rey ($24 (£12) for a room..sweeeeet). Had a walk around town and had a few beers (hair of the dog and all that). Was really lively. Loads of bars and clubs and cheap as chips but loads of Americans around. Well, it is their party town after all. Earlyish night as tomorrow I need to find the local bus terminal and head down the Baja California strip to a small, sleepy beach town called Mulege where I hope to spend a few days chilling on the beach and recovering from the 4700 odd miles of US driving. This will be my halfway point to La Paz, right at the bottom of the California Baja strip.

Eventually found the bus terminal using my Michelle Thomas broken spanish and booked the bus. Shit, 17 hour bus journey to Mulege (I didn't think it was that far!?). The cost was $100. Travel in Mexico seems to be pretty pricey so gonna have to watch my budget which incidentally is ($40 (£20) per day in Central America). From now I'm going to stay in the cheapest possible place, La Cocker-a-cha's and bedbugs included.

The bus was very comfy. Air con, recliners, videos (was forced to watch Ice Age 2 (looked very good to me), Lion King 3 and I Heart Huckerbees in spanish. Also got chatting to Doug (Scottish but a London resident..Queens Park no less) and his Aussie wife Amber who are doing a trip around Mexico for 12 weeks and are then settling in Sydney. Really nice couple. Bus arrived in the small town of Mulege at 5am. The journey went quicker than expected but at that kind of time the town was dead.

Me, Doug and Amber wandered the town with packs (thank God I travel light) looking for lodgings. Most were over budget but eventually I found a low budget room for $25 at Manuelita's (still a bit over budget for me but good for 1 night..and it seemed the cheapest in town). It was grotty and had some 'La Cocko-ra-cha's' in bathroom, about 2 million tiny ants crawling up the bed legs and the TV was broken (well, at least I had something to look at).

As I opened the door a crazy feral kitten dashed into the room and jumped on the bed. I had to chase it round the room. It probably left a ton of fleas as well.

Settled into the room and had a wander around for breakfast. Still too early so had a look around town (all 20 buildings of it). The main square had a mini funfair set up. I'll have to investigate that later on. Slap up breakfast and then straight to the beach for me. Now, I was told by a few locals that the beach was 1-2 km walk from town...boy that was wrong. After what seemed like a 5 mile walk and losing about a stone in weight (never been so hot in all my life) I eventually got to the sea.

Not much of a beach at all but the water looked clean. Sat near a rocky bit and saw some beautiful shoals of fish; black and yellow striped, bright blue, bright purple, red and some huge silver ones. Went for a long swim and was standing in the water when I felt something pinch my leg. I must have jumped 2 foot in the air (was a bit paranoid because nobody was swimming or on the beach). Was it sharks?..jellyfish?..nope, just a tiny blue fish had pulled one of my leg hairs.

After a few hours of this and getting myself slightly burnt (medium rare please) I headed back to town. Arrived back soaking with sweat and realised why the Mexicans always have a siesta in the afternoon (It is Hot with a capital Ho). I think I'm just going to spend one night here and do some chilling further south in La Paz. This town really is too sleepy and pricey for me. After a slap up dinner with Doug and Amber I headed off to the funfair.

Looked good fun with families of Mexican os dressed up to the nines. Allot of Tequila fuelled blokes stumbling around too. Was nearly tempted with a few shots but thought better of it. Plenty of time to sample the Tequila's elsewhere. Made the decision to definitely move on to La Paz tomorrow. This place is a bit too pricey, no beaches nearby and no good bars. The people are really nice though and this is the kind of non-commercial place everyone that comes here loves.

Waited around for the bus to La Paz in the sweltering heat. Finally arrived and settled in for a 7 hour ride (cost $50). Uneventful ride but great views of beautiful beaches with shelters on the sand (I've heard you can sleep under these overnight and just jump in the sea before breakfast..nice), fields of cacti (huge ones, tiny ones but millions of them). Watched The Fog in spanish. Looked really pants and probably no way as good as James Herberts' book.

Arrived in La Paz at 7pm and immediately liked the place; very relaxed, bars and restaurants facing the sea, long walking prominade...but blimey it was scochio! Bid a sad farewell to Doug and Amber as they were heading further south on the bus. Great when you meet cool people that you get on with on the road. After an hour of looking for my budget motel finally found it. Great place called the Hosteria del Convento and at $17 (£9) a night I was a happy man. No aircon, bedding or towels but nice and clean (i may regret the lack of aircon tomorrow).

Did I mention it is seriously hot here. Really humid heat. You just have to tie your shoe laces and your sweating like a pig. After a 10 minute walk all my clothes would be drenched. Had a casual dinner of Tacos on the promenade, watched the sea and stars for a bit and then had a few beers.

Walked around a bit more to orientate myself then tomorrow I make a beeline to the tourist office to find out where to book my ferry to mainland Mexico, find an internet place and also where the best beaches are. Bed bugs got me again last night in what I have dubbed the Hilton zoo (Morege) so tonight is the night for my trusty (well not yet) silk sleeping sheet to prove its worth.

Not much sleep last night. Woke up at 4am to the sound of rattling windows..major storm outside. Once it died down I got out of bed to check and stood ankle deep in water (as was my pack and most of its contents..bollox). I had a flashback of when I was in Nam..erm no Madagascar, when I lost most of my gear in a flash flood. When I finished unpacking and semi-drying everything I felt the building shake. Bloody earthquake..a minor one but still. I'll have to get used to these crazy weather and ground shakes. Even after only a few hours kip I got up early and had a wander around town.

Checked out the Catedral de Nuestra Senora de la Paz (built in 1861..not stunning from the outside but built in such a simple way it was charming and very spacious inside) Then walked around the back streets watching the Mexicans go about their business. Its amazing that they don't seem to sweat in this heat. I'm having to duck from shop to shop with aircon pretending I'm interested in their goods just to keep awake. Also, with so many people around and outside all day doesn't anyone work here? Stopped at a food stall and seeing as I've gone over budget already its time to live off stall food for a while.

Thought I'd try out my Spanish in front of quite a few customers "Que chiere?" I asked the food seller (thinking I'm asking him 'what have you got?'..I now know it means "What do you want?"). He looked very confused and not too impressed and replied "blah, blah, blah, blah, blah" (that's exactly what I understood). I replied "una, por favor" and was given a prawn (battered) taco ($1). Now prawns are one of the only things I don't eat but I wasn't gonna lose face after all my language confusion so ate it up. Verrrrrry tasty. I told him 'No hablo Espanol' and he agreed fully.

Siesta time for me in the afternoon (the streets really empty out around 3-5pm when everyone gets out of the crazy heat. Then went for a long walk down the prominade and out of town. My mission; to find a decent beach for a splash about. After an hour of walking found a decent spot and plotted down for a relaxing few hours of swimming and catching rays. Just me and a family had the beach all to ourselves.

On the way back bought myself some meat tacos this time and had them on the beach (a cheap dinner on the beach for $2 and a beautiful sunset thrown in for the price). After all the walking and sweating needed a sugar blast so bought an ice cream ($2..blooody pricey) and walked back for an early night. No beer tonight (can't afford it at moment).

Tomorrows plan is to book my ferry ticket across the Gulf Of California and to mainland Mexico (to Los Mochis). I think the ferry journey is gonna be an all-nighter (please let me have my sea legs...september is bad weather and storms month).

Bloody hell talk of the devil! Woke up at 6am to hear thunderous winds and water coming down by the bucket-loads. Opened the door to my room and there was a river of filthy water right outside my door. All the other guests were standing inside their doors staring in shock. Couldn't leave the room for a while so ate some breakfast bars (bought specifically for such an occasion). Donned my waterproof jacket and headed out. All the roads were almost knee deep in water so the going was slow.

Managed to get a taxi to the Baja Ferry office (I didn't hold any hope of the ferry going ahead...even if it was I wouldn't get it in this storm). As predicted no ferries..airport was closed too. Shit, hope I don't get stuck here too long. Will try again tomorrow. 99% of the shops were closed and the owners had sellotaped the windows (not sure how serious a storm this will be if they have to do that). I had planned a trip to the local Anthropological museum (yep, shut too).

There was one crazy food seller still open on the street (tons of customers) so I grabbed the chance for lunch and ordered 2 delicious pancakes filled with beef stew, onion and chillie (Mmmmmm ummmmm). Only set me back $2. I had to see for myself how bad the seas were so wading through road-rivers up to my knees and went to the sea. It really was rough (nearly made me sea-sick just looking at it). Boats anchored were being tossed around like toys and palm trees were bent half way to the ground. Found a cafe that offered free 15 minutes on their computer when you buy a drink so sorted out the usual blog updates and emails. Then back to the room as everything's shut and nobody is daft enough to be outside. It was a quiet evening/night for me. Thank God I had some books and a great game on my trusty Nokia called Ancient Empires.

After another earthquake shook the room (scary stuff when you're not used to it) it dawned on me that I hadn't had dinner. Even though there were gale force winds outside I went on the hunt for food (anyone that knows me well knows that nothing stands in the way of me and food when I get the hunger). The streets were totally deserted. Just a few stray dogs and police cars patrolling. It felt like a curfew. I was walking for at least an hour in the seriously strong rain and gale force winds. At one point a stray dog latched itself onto me. I kept telling him he's wasting his time with me: firstly I have no food buddy and secondly if you follow me you'll get lost and walk around in circles. Eventually he realised how hopeless it was and left.

Finally found a beacon of hope in the shape of a 24 hour shop (only one open in all La Paz) and got some grub down me. Got back had some food and had a game of 'shit head' with a posse of English lads from Farnham and Guildford. They're over for 6 weeks of travel in US and Mexico. Everyone is always quite shocked when I mention how long I may be on the road for. Its actually nice to have some rain as there's no need for the noisy fan all night and lack of sleep due to the heat (nice). Just pray the storm clears for tomorrows ferry...please!? Really need to get going.

The devastation caused by the storm in La Paz was pretty bad. In the morning I had a walk around town and saw pavements ripped up (earthquake), electricity pylons uprooted and loads of poor palm trees destroyed. Went straight to the Baja Ferries office and there was a glimmer of hope. There may be a ferry today and after an hour of them checking satellite photos of the predicted hurricane route they said 'Si' (Ole!). Bought the ticket ($72..again, bloody pricey) and so had the rest of the day to waste as it leaves at 8pm (damnit, going to arrive in Los Mochis at 4am!).

Tried the Baja Anthropological museum but no joy. Closed because of storm. Had a look around the shops and the beach. Found a peer where the Queen and my mate Phil the Greek landed in 1982 for a visit to La Paz (who would have thought?). Back to the hotel and had a long chat with a straggler from the Farnham posse. Huge football fan (Liverpool) and a DJ back home. He filled me in on transfers and new signings + the fact that Chelsea lost to Villa and is 2nd (crap).

At 6 it was time to get a taxi to the Ferry terminal ($13) (i tried the local buses but limited service). Ferry was supposed to leave at 8pm and in true Latin America style it finally left at 10.30. It was a huge roll on/ roll off ship. Thought I was going to get a cabin for that price but got a standard seat like on a plane. Watched a really good Khazhakstan film (never caught the name of it) and Troy in Spanish.

Took a couple of tablets to help my sea legs and ended up just falling asleep for the whole journey (nice..no need to pay for accommodation that night). Finally arrived in Los Mochis at a slightly more decent time of 6am. Got a shared taxi ($5 each) into town and booked into my low budget hotel (Los Arcos, $18). The whole room floor was flooded but I'm getting used to this now.

The plan for the this next week is to catch the 6am train ride through the Copper Canyon. This is one of the greatest train journeys in the world going through canyons and cliffs. I'll get off at Creel, have a look at the canyon proper (meant to be more spectacular than even the Grand Canyon), then onto some provincial silver mining towns, a town where they have ancient mummified Aztec bodies and onto a town called Durango where they filmed loads of wild west films (quite a few John Wayne ones) and still have allot of the sets standing.

Latest...the Copper Canyon train has been cancelled indefinitely due to flooding and storms. Holy shit!! I´m going to wait another day here just in case it clears. If not I´ll catch a bus to the next town and see from there.

Arrived at a better time than expected in Los Mochis, 6am. Shared a taxi with 4 others from the ferry ($5 each) and was dropped off at my choice of budget hotel Los Arcos ($18 per night..nice). The room was well rough with live wires hanging out of sockets, live wires connected to the shower and sellotaped together (shocking!...sorry) and there was an ankle deep puddle nearly taking up the whole floor space. It took a Krypton Factor and Crystal Maze type cunning and lateral thinking to navigate the room without getting too wet but any time I got to the bed I'd always have wet feet and a wet bed.

Time for a wander around town. Los Mochis isn't famous for its sights, in fact it hasn't got any. Its good for 2 things: The start or end of the Copper Canyon train ride and its sea food. I actually really like the place. Its refreshing to walk around a non-touristy place where the shops and stuff cater for the locals only. The people are really friendly too once they get past the usual staring phase. The Mexicans I've met so far I have to say I really like them. They're definitely fun-loving and once they realise you're not an American they do warm to you. They really don't like the Americans (allot of bad blood there). Funny thing is although the Mexicans are portrayed really badly in most (if not all) Cowboy films they're really into them big time. The rudest Mexicans I've met have been in touristy places like big name hotels and travel agents (try figure that one out) but in general if you make the effort to speak Spanish and look stupid doing it they will also make the effort.

First mission of the day was to buy my ticket for one of the greatest railway journeys in the world, the Copper Canyon train ride. Unfortunately it wasn't to be because of the hurricane damage. Manyana (not sure if the spellings right) they said. I better get used to this Manyana business, I guess its gonna be a regular thing in Latino America. Around lunchtime I wanted to try something slightly different for lunch so went for a weird fusion of Japanese/Mexican/Californian Sushi. It was a California roll with fresh fish (not sure what kind), cucumber, chillies and...now here's the odd one...Philadelphia cheese. Very odd combo but nice and all for $3.

Found an internet cafe with internet access for $1 an hour (woohoo!) so did the usual blog updates and email checks. I actually thought internet access would be harder in Mexico but it is very common everywhere from smallish towns to cities and in general is well cheap (God bless Mexico's network). Then back to the room with a view of a lake (from inside) for a siesta out of the searing and sweat inducing heat. The further I travel the hotter it gets..by the time I reach Mexico city I'll be well done.

Had a chat with one of the hotel workers about Mexico and stuff (well sort of..he talked and I would nod my head and say either: si, bueno or comprende. I caught some of it though. He said the police are pretty brutal here and beat allot of people and shoot them so to be careful (I already knew it was wise to avoid them unless really necessary). He also mentioned how gorgeous the Mexican girls are (this I readily agreed with). Although some are plumpish most of them are slim and stunning (Viva Mexican girls).

After siesta time when nearly everything shuts I contacted the train office again. Still no news. So rather than mope around all evening cursing the changing weather in the world and Manana's I decided tonight was going to be my weekly blowout and so I went out on the lash. Some of the bars were well shady. I'd walk in and everyone would go quiet and stare (not that relaxing if you have even some self-consciousness). In these situations I got the message and downed the beer as quickly as possible and muttered an asta luega as I scampered out. Most of the bars were great though (very basic; a few wooden chairs, tables and a TV in the corner.

The Mexicans really do know how to party; lots of hollering, clapping, shouting, stamping feet and swearing (I did quite a bit of that myself). At the end of the night I ended up in a club that played some good tunes (one of my faves being 'Gasolina'...top, top tune with a thumping bass and beat). That one got me started for a boogie. Conversation, as I knew too well wasn't going to be easy with my poor (but improving) Spanish. Most conversations would go like this: Hola...Como esta?..Como se Llama?...bueno, bueno Mucho gustom. They would then ramble on in Spanish and I'd stop them and say no hablo Espanol, los siento and that would kill it stone dead. They would laugh, I would laugh and we'd shrug shoulders and go our separate ways (sigh, if only Michelle Thomas would be my travel companion for the Latin speaking countries). Ah well, plenty of time to practice. At 3am I rolled home and as usual slept with wet feet.

Learnt a new lesson last night. Never sleep with you camera, PDA and guidebook on the bed when your're sleeping in the middle of a lake. This morning everything was lying in the lake soaking wet. I had to put everything in front of the fan for 2 hours to see if I could salvage them. Everything ended up working fine eventually (thank you fan). First mission of the day was the train. Please let it be running. As usual I was told Manana and also to confirm again in the afternoon.

Had another walk around town and had a traditional Mexican lunch which consisted of a pancake with crusted base with chilli, onions, salad and tuna (Ummmmmm mmmmmm) all for $3. Back to the hotel for laundry chores as I'm starting to smell like an old sock. No washing machines there so had to get it done at the laundry. Very different system to anything I've come across, they charge per kilo of clothes. I haven't got much so that was a cheap wash ($1.50). Quite nervously I called the train office again and was told..all systems are go for tomorrows train (woohoo go go go...mind you, I will have to wake up at 4am to get there for the 6am start).

Had another chat with the hotel guy and he sorted me out an 'Economico' room that only cost $12 (£6) a night (Reeeesult). Was going to take it easy tonight so decided to go and catch a film; either Bourne Ultimatum or Stardust. Got a local bus following the hotel guys directions and ended up staying on it til the last stop half an hour away. Nobody on the bus knew or understood what I was asking for. I even used hand movements (which I always thought I was good at) to visually describe a film..shooting guns,riding horses and flying space ships. They either thought I was just another mad gringo or playing some kind of Charades games for their amusement (was very funny at the time). I never did find the cinema but it wasn't a wasted journey...had a good laugh anyway. Had some delicious meat taco's from a stall for dinner for $1.50 and had a smoke outside the hotel.

Again had a chat with hotel guy (never did get his name) and he was harping on about Cocaine (either that or he liked snuff allot). He was convinced my roll ups were spliffs and had a sniff of the roll up to check, then laughed and called his mate over to verify it (roll ups aren't common at all here). He also said that the hotel also rents out rooms by the hour (I never would have guessed it).

Early night and goddamn early rise (4am) but fingers crossed the train really is leaving tomorrow. As much as I like Los Mochis its time to move. Maybe not realistic but I am aiming to reach Mexico city (or another major city/ town) for 15th September. That day being Independence day. I expect allot of parties and shouting (hopefully not too much shooting in the air).

4am and I wasn't bright eyed and bushy tailed but none the less I had a ticket to queue for and hopefully a train to catch. I was told there was a local bus that goes to the station at this un-godly hour but it never showed so I had to bite the bullet and catch a cab ($7). Found out later there is one but it starts at 6am (too late). Got to the station at 5 and finally had the ticket in my hands. Bit of a downer though, 30 min's later realised I had bought a ticket for the 'Premium' train ($78 and leaves first) and not the 'Economy' ($39 leaves second 2 hours later) (Gutted with a capital Gut). Just too early in the morning for my brain to function and an exchange of ticket was refused.

The train was delayed and didn't leave til 8.30 am (long wait but chatted to and old fellah from Chicago called Tony. Sort of gentle giant type. Nice bloke who'd done the train journey 3 times already). Also chatted to a rough shaven headed Meeeghicana who'd done 8 years in California State Prison for attempted murder (or something similar..didn't want to push too hard). Said he'd had a rough time of it not speaking English at the time but learnt dammed fast (maybe that's how I could learn Spanish quickly..just a thought). He kept telling me how much more fun the Economy train was and especially the capital city of the state Chihuahua which I'm not going to (shit! Ay Chihuahua!).

I'm a big fan of train journeys, always have been. Not in a train spotting sense but just the ride: watching different landscapes flash past, the toot of the trains whistle and the regular rattle and roll. It was a really great journey going through flat grasslands with small local villages, then rolling hills with small waterfalls every 15 minutes, next was rocky hills with big waterfalls every 10 minutes and rivers flowing beside the tracks and finally going 2500 metres up into the mountains with indigenous peoples wearing colourful costumes. The only dampener on the whole thing was the train went backwards all the way (meaning everyone was facing the wrong way).

Quite a few people yakked up and it took a mammoth effort for me not to join the sick gang. Luckily there were gaps between the carriages where you could face the right way and also get a better view. But these spots were in great demand and a few arguments happened between Mexicans. The train went through some really hair-rising turns that were right on the cliffs edge (that got me sweating). It made about 6 stops in all where everyone would get a chance to walk for a bit. We nearly left without a family of 5 and they had to chase the train to get back on. One of the stops was at a place called Divisadero where you walk through a narrow market and at the end is an incredible view of the Copper Canyon and to add to the spectacular there was a storm approaching behind it.

Food on the train was well pricey. 3 pieces of toast and a coffee was $6 (Jesus). Luckily I'd bought some snacks and supplies with me. There was a mad American sitting opposite me who kept commenting on everything 'Sheet, look at that tree'. Nearly drove me mad but ended up laughing about it. Finally arrived in Creel at 6.30 pm. Shit its cold here. Had to don my fleece and waterproofs. This is a first for me so far but I'm sure it'll be a hell of allot colder in Chile or Bolivia so better get used to it. Walked around for awhile and finally came across a hotel within my budget (a modest $15 but there was hot water, a towel and no wildlife!!).

Had dinner in a local restaurant. A very delicious beef, onion and mushroom stew, fresh avocado and soft taco's (still don't remember what they're called). Very early night..got to catch up with the lack of sleep last night (only 3 hours). The plan tomorrow is hire a mountain bike and explore the area. I pray I don't get too lost.

Hired a mountain bike for the day from the 3 Amigo's (great name for a company) for $15. Map and directions were supplied. Once outside Creel there is was a paying hut ($1.50 per day) to access all the interesting bits. Started at the Valley of the Monks which had natural rock formations shaped like Monks. To be honest only one of them looked slightly like a monk but still very impressive. Next was the Valley of Mushrooms and Frogs. These did actually look like Mushrooms and Frogs.

Saw allot of Raramuri Indians in this area (native people of the lowlands but they were bullied out by the Spanish hundreds of years ago so settled here) but they are pretty shy so didn't talk to them (I did try when I stopped at one of their provision shops but was met with blank stares). The rocks thinned out at the next 4 miles and I cycled through gorgeous grasslands with rock formations in the background.

Then I passed through highland forest where I had a long break. A Raramuri mother and daughter (with a baby strapped to her front by colourful cloth) passed me so I greeted them and asked if I could take a photo because their costumes were so beautiful. They literally ran off and hid behind the nearest tree. The daughter was laughing but the mother was a bit pissed. I got the message and stopped (at least I asked). I did actually get a sneaky shot but they were still behind the trees.

Next was Lake Arereko (Raramuri meaning horseshoe). Its actually a man-made lake but pretty none the less. As is my usual habit I did try and swim but the coldness got the better of me (am I going soft out here?) so I lounged around on the banks and watched the Mexicans in hired rowing boats go round. By late afternoon I heard a loud booming sound. A mammoth storm was brewing and wasn't far away so I packed up and cycled like a maniac around the lake to find shelter. Finally found a rock formation high above the lake with a great view and decent rain cover. I sat out the storm for a few hours and cycled back slowly. The bike had to be back for 7 and got there just in time. The 3 Amigo's offered me a Tequila which I readily accepted. Verrrry smooth and no salt and lemon required (what kind of shit Tequila do we have in the UK pubs..we need this stuff).

Had a budget dinner from a stall of a sort of frankfurter sausage with bacon wrapped round it enclosed in a soft taco. Very nice and only $1.50. The stall had a little TV showing some Mexican league football (Santos vs America..good game and allot of fouling and cards). Had a chat with some locals at half time (all donning cowboy hats, jeans and pointy cowboy boots..very cool) about football. Summary of it was that Mexico were shit in last World Cup and England were slightly better (and no..they've never heard of D. Becks). I think my Spanish is improving slightly (nice). Sat near the main street (actually it really is the only street...the whole town centre is built around the railway station) and did some people watching.

One thing I've noticed is every small town I've been to in Mexico in the evening a major social event is to drive slowly down the main road blaring music (local tunes..a sort of Polka but with accordion) and showing off. Good fun to watch and they will actually continuously go up and down the street all night. Saturday and Sunday the teens hang out on steps everywhere all dressed up (but nowhere to go) and eyeing each other up. Another thing they do is giggle at the Gringo's in town (cheeky scamps).

Early night tonight as I've got a 7.30 am bus to catch to Guachochi where I'll stay for half a day and a night because the view of the Canyons and Rio Verde is meant to be amazing. From there its a bus to Hidalgo del Parral, an old mining town.

Got up at the crack of dawn ready for the 7am bus to Guachachi. The hotel manager had told me the bus leaves at 7am to the left of the hotel, when in fact it left at 8.30am to the right of the hotel (doughnut!). The bus was the usual economy type; resprayed US school bus (probably imported 20 years ago) with half exposed seat stuffing and rattling suspension..but it was cheap as chips at $9 all the way. Allot of rural folk (especially Ruramir people) were getting on and off the bus in the middle of nowhere. They would just appear next to the road and get on.

Saw some beautiful scenery and experienced some hair-raising drops and steep bumpy roads. Throughout the 4 hour trip this eejit kept talking to the driver and just as we'd approach a really tight curve with a million foot steep drop he'd ask the driver something and the driver would look at him (well, it would be rude not to..) and rattle on without watching the road. It took an amazing effort from me not to grab the chatterbox and push him in a seat. Using his Jedi driving skills I got to Guachochi safely but quite late at 2pm. Had a delicious beef stew with veg and chillies and Taco's cooked by a granny in an old hut (I wasn't even sure it was a public eating place but I was starving and she did tell me to sit and charged a measly $1).

Next I had to find the usual elusive cheap hotel. None to be found. To be honest I had a cold coming on so just went for the only reasonable one I found, the Hotel Chaperro. Well overpriced at $25 a night. I've stayed in far better for half the price.. Was starting to feel well rough so bought a bag of apples (they grow delicious small red apples here) for a vitamin C boost and hunkered down for a while. Late afternoon my mission (the only one in this town) was to see the supposedly stunning views of rolling mountains and hills. Similar to the Grand Canyon but very green). The hotel owner was really unhelpful and didn't know how to get to the view. My guidebook said it was a 4 hour walk and I wasn't feeling too hot so I had to splash out on a taxi there ($30....shit, better be worth it).

The road there was really bad and full of giant holes for 12 miles so no wonder the taxi charged allot (didn't see any buses go past or anyone walking there). Although the hotel and this has really blown my budget it was worth every penny. What's the point traveling if you're not going to see these kind of things, will just have to save money elsewhere. It really was stunning and I caught it at a good time just as the sun was dipping so it added the extra dimension of shadows and colour.

Dinner was a feast of tinned tuna and 4 apples. Gotta nuke this cold as tomorrow I've got a 4 hour bus ride to Hidalgo del Parral (was originally going to stay here but have chosen to skip this town) and then another 7 hours to Durango.

Damnit, overslept and missed the7am bus so had to wait around for 4 hours in the town square. Just ate more apples and did some people watching as the town woke up. First the street cleaners appeared and pretended to clean but were actually just chatting to each other, then odd office worker would roll up in their pickup truck the millions of school kids appeared from nowhere. 9.15 it all went quiet again. Finally caught the bus at 11.30 (the usual converted school bus) for the good price of $6.50).

Had to stop at a few military check points and everyone was ushered off the bus while they searched it with sniffer dogs (drugs I presume..glad I wasn't carrying anything and also glad I've stopped wearing my T-shirt with an ape wearing a military hat..not a good idea). Reached Hidalgo del Parral quite late and nearly chose to stay the night as it looked like a nice town but I instead broke one of my travel rules of not catching a night bus. It wasn't a mistake in the end as I covered allot of distance for the price of $24. It seems buses going on B roads (small town to small town) are the real budget choice but for A roads there is only the option of quick, slightly luxury coach type buses and expensive too. Had a long chat with a Mexican girl on here way to her mother-in-laws funeral in Durango. She had actually covered the distance from Denver (Colorado) to Durango in 27 hours and costing $320 (pretty fast and cheap..now that's some major distance).

Arrived in Durango at midnight and got a taxi ($2.50) to my guidebooks lowest budget choice (Hotel Buenos Aires, $14..schweeeet..and nice place too). I immediately liked Durango with its narrow streets with old buildings and a huge Cathedral lighting up the town square. Much to explore tomorrow. My guidebook of preference by the way is called the 'Footprint' guide and although I used to be almost evangelical about the famous 'Lonely Planet' guides especially during my time in Africa...Footprint spits all over Lonely Planet in every sense; quality, experience, up-to-date and quantity. These guys (English too I might add) have been writing guide books since 1921. Plain and simple it is superior). I used the Lonely planet guide for the US and it wasn't much use really apart from the maps (great maps).

Early start as usual (well, I thought it was early..my watch and PDA said 8am when in reality it was 10am...bloody hell, where did I lose 2 hours?) and as always in a new town/ city I just walk around for a few hours getting my bearings and sussing the place. Checked out the cathedral, churches and town square (very lively and seems to be, like most towns in Mexico, the centre for socialising. Had a great grilled half chicken, tortilla (yes..Tortilla with everything here), salad and rice for lunch (well cheap at $1.60).

One of my main sites of interest here is the western set of Villa del Oeste where they have filmed 150 films over the years..the latest being the Mask of Zorro. Quite a few John Wayne and even some Dean Martin films were made here. The place was 10 miles out of town and finding a way there was becoming an issue. Not one to give up that easily it took 2 hours to come to the conclusion (according to all the locals) that no bus goes or will stop there (apart from Saturday and Sunday when tour groups go there and there are live Wild West shows. Taxi time again but at $6 it was worth it. It was like being a kid in a playground. I had the whole Wild West set to myself. Did the usual predictable things like lounging outside the saloon (with a fake bottle of Whiskey), posing next to a 'Wanted' poster and standing under the town noose. They even had a small Native American area where John Wayne must have had a Pow wow or shot some natives). I'll have to watch a few of the films when I can just to see the set in action properly. The guy at the ticket kiosk (yes, it was shaped like a typical cowboy house) told me a bus comes past every hour that will take me back to town.

I waited...and waited..and waited some more. After 2.5 hours in the scorching heat a bus stopped and took me back to town again for $1. On my arrival I noticed (of all things here) a Wal-Mart and cinema complex so after a touch of film memorabilia I decided to watch a film. Chose the Bourne Ultimatum (I've always been a fan of the Bourne films). I wasn't disappointed..a really good film (top fight scene with the Morroccan fellah). Popcorn, coke and film ticket, grand total of $6 (£3...blimey). Stocked up on a few bits from Wal-Mart and noticed a department store called 'Liverpool' (weird name) with loads of cheap clothes. My tobacco finding mission is hopeless. No shops anywhere sell it so my beloved roll-ups are demoted to the bottom of the pack. I pray Mexico city sells it. Have decided to celebrate Mexico's Independence day (September 16th) in a town on the way to Mexico city called Zacatecas. I get the feeling it will be more fun and less manic than the big city celebrations. Haven't decided if I'm going to stay here in Durango for another day but will see how it goes.

The plan for the next week is Zacatecas for a few days then Mexico city for at least 5 days. I've decided to stay put somewhere for at least 1 week and do an intensive Spanish language course. At $200 a week I think it's definitely worth it. I've really under-estimated the importance of the language and will definitely need it for Central and South America. I feel I'm missing way too much dialogue to properly enjoy and understand Mexico. The city of Antigua in Guatemala is famous for its language schools and cheaper than Mexico so it might have to be there.

Have decided today will be my last day in Durango so I can spend more time (hopefully 1 week) in Zacatecas which everyone raves about as being a really chilled and atmospheric city with loads to do. Had some chores to do; buy new trousers (my current ones have been sun-bleached and are already falling to pieces..bloody hell, only had them for 2 months), post a parcel to UK (postage prices are well expensive here..paid $12 for a fairly light one) and internet stuff.

Lunch was a Mexican style burger in a restaurant that just had one table and a small hand-written sign outside. In fact after further study it was just the front patio of an old lady's house. The burger was delicious and cost a measly $1.50. An old Mexican fellah (the owner) made a brave attempt at speaking to me in English. It was so bad that We agreed to try Spanish instead (he sounded almost like a drunk Dick Van Dyke in Mary Poppins).

Was then time to bid asta luega to Durango and head off to the apparent party and chilled city of Zacatecas. I just about made it to the bus terminal for the 3.30pm bus ($20). The journey was pretty smooth and as this was a fairly long distance trip there were films onboard. Watched the Green Mile (such a good film) for the 50th time. Bought another pot of fruit and when the seller (who comes on the buses) was about to pour heaps of chilli powder on it I saved the fruit just in time (fruit and chilli?....Jesus what next..Bananas with Marmite on them?).

Arrived In Zacatecas at 9.30 and headed for the Hostal Villa Colonial. I had decided to stay here to make up for my going over budget and also to catch up with some fellow backpackers. For the last week I've been staying in cheap local hotels and haven't spoken a word of English even. The place was really nice and at $9 a night It was fairly cheap. They've got a roof patio with beautiful views of the city so had a quick shower bought a few beers and chilled there.

Got chatting to a mixed group of travelers from England, N Ireland, Scotland, Australia, Chicago and Mexico. Some of them had intended to stay here for only a few days but have ended up staying for months (I suspect this place is a human magnet of some kind). Got pretty wasted and played shit-head til 3 am (Tequila's didn't help brushing up on the game rules).

Viva Mexico!! Felt well rough this morning so a late rise. Walked up to the cable car station (they have a small cable car that crosses the city and ends at a hill with a view). They were closed because of the days celebrations so walked to the Mask Museum ($2). The museum has an amazing collection of Mexican masks from friendly to scary to just plain weird. Spent a good few hours there. Had a cheap hot dog for lunch ($1.50) and lounged around the hostel with other backpackers.

My daily siesta was rudely interrupted by the sound of an explosion. I rushed outside to see what was going on and saw a long line of classically dressed soldiers marching up the road. They were split into 3 types; Spanish, Mexican and for some strange reason Moorish and they all carried guns (even the kids). It was a great spectacle and I guess they were re-enacting the liberation of Mexico (still don't know where the Moors come into it though. Every 5 minutes there would be a loud bang as they let off some kind of super firework. It really sounded like there was a proper war going on.

Late afternoon the place to see the celebrations was the town square so I spent all evening drinking beer and soaking up the atmosphere. There were live bands playing traditional Mexican music, dancing and every 30 minutes a guy on the roof of the main government building would toss 100's of sombrero's down to the crowd. It was manic, the Mexicans were going mental to try and catch the hat. Nearly caught one but was barged out of the way by a Mexican grannie. Then it was time for the Tequila party.

By the time I got there it was in full swing. Half the crowd were Mexican and the other half backpackers but all were Tequila'd up to the extreme. Allot of Salsa dancing and Dentist chair drinking ensued. I managed a pitiful 5 seconds of purest Tequila being poured down my gob in the chair. A German fellah was crowned the King of Tequila when he managed a respectful 15 seconds (nearly a third of the bottle) to the disgust of the Mexicans. After that followed a great fireworks display with the backdrop of the cathedral and city. Then onto a free nightclub. Everyone started dancing immediately, mainly Salsa and the Mexican polka dance.

I got Salsa lessons (for free) from an enthusiastic Mexican girl. By 5am allot of people were leaving but I was still ready for more (gotta be the Tequila) so I managed to round up only one person to join me (Sylvan) to go to the place where its all at, the Fair. Arrived thinking it may be a bit quiet but it was packed with crazy, drunk Mexicans shouting Viva Mexico. The atmosphere was a bit intimidating but they were all friendly enough once they knew we weren't Gringo's (Americana). Went to a club and had a boogie. The place was winding down so went for a wander around the bars in the fair. Had lots of invites to parties by Mexicans but by this stage I was feeling well rough. Couldn't find a taxi so had to get a local bus which was kinda scary.

Everyone was pissed (the driver too I suspect) and kept handing us drinks then crowding round and shouting in Mexican. Eventually got back at 7am feeling as rough as hell. Tomorrow will be a major rest and chill out day. No more Tequila for now.

Lounged around on the famous hostel roof terrace and had a chat with a group of East German backpackers and a French surfer dude (yes, he carries a huge surfboard with him everywhere). Big accommodation problems today, as its Independence day tomorrow there's a huge influx of people coming to Zacatecas (this is the place to be for the celebrations) and I can't keep my dorm bed. There are 70 Mexicans coming to the hostel.

After much wrangling and hand shaking I managed to secure my bed for 4 more nights (hurrah). Was invited to join the group from last night (Phil; 42 year old Essex fellah, funny guy), Angel; 25 year old Northern Irish fellah who makes bongs for people and smokes gear every wake moment, Lucy, from Sydney and Claire from Ireland, who's Brazilian boyfriend is a bull rider) for what is supposed to be the best goat stew ever. Walked through a market and eventually found the place. The stew was delicious ($3).

Walked around town and saw some amazing sights of old ruins and churches, cobbled streets and a huge cathedral. This really is a great place to plot for a while. After a much needed siesta Claire invited me and Lucy to watch her Brazilian boyfriend (a bull rider no less) in a bull riding contest in the local amphitheatre. This is a spectacle I couldn't miss. Caught the local bus to the Zacatecas Fair which was a huge gathering of beer tents, rides, clubs and live bands playing. After a few beers got some discounted tickets ($10) and entered the huge arena.

There were 20,000 crazy Mexicans screaming and hollering and waving cowboy hats. Yes, we even did a few Mexican waves. It all kicked off with the clowns prancing around and generally making a nuisance of themselves, then came fireworks and finally at 10 the main event. 25 bull riders were competing for the $10,000 1st prize. Some had pretty rough rides and were tossed high in the air. Claire's fellah (who is apparently one of the best) only managed 2 seconds. Had quite a few beers and tequila's that night.

Lucy went home early and Claire stayed with her fellah so I hung around the fair and drank loads more. Ended up in a club and had a good boogie. Again having problems with the language (gotta do this course soon) and rolled home (after getting totally lost for 30 min's in the huge fair) at 4am.

Very late rise at 12 and a bad head. Did absolutely nothing all day except lounge on the roof terrace drinking orange juice and chatting to people. Made the valiant effort to take my laundry to the cleaners but forgot it was sunday so nothing was open. Walked around town a bit late afternoon and it was all pretty quiet (I suspect everyone's suffering the Tequila binge just like me). Last day in Zacatecas tomorrow so lots to do before I head to Mexico city the day after tomorrow.

Woke up early today and headed straight into town. Nothing open until 10am (its a good life here) so walked around town a bit and checked out an old church in town. Caught a great Museum called the Museo Pedro Coronel ($2). Had all sorts of classical artifacts from Mexico, China, Japan (who knows where they got those), Rome, Egypt and Indonesia. They also had a fairly big art collection from all around the world including Salvador Dali (probably my favourite artist of all time), Picasso, Miro and William Hogart and Utigawa Kunisada. After this injection of culture found a nice traditional Mexican cafe and had some spicy hot Taco's (Jesus they were spiiiiceyyyy) for $2.50.

One other thing I had to do in Zacatecas was ride the cable car over the city and onto the hill overlooking it. Nice ride but a bit wobbly for my liking (I was clinging onto the side for dear life). Had a look around the hill and chilled for a while. Great views of the city. Then walked down the hill (needed some exercise). Skipped siesta time today and walked around town. Amazing how quiet it was..seems everyone siesta's out of the heat between 3 and 5. Sat on the famous hostel roof garden for the evening and chatted to some new arrivals Fred (Dublin lad) and his girlfriend from Essex (although she denies it..stating that its South East London).

Then was joined by the usual crowd who have been here forever (not sure if they really love it here or they are too scared/ set in their ways to continue their travels. Also met Pam, a really nice middle-aged lass from Memphis, Tenessee (her husband was a musician but sadly died 7 years ago. Her son is in the US marines now based in North Carolina but also a budding musician..must be something about Memphis).

Budget was thrown out the window in the last few days of Independence day celebrations so cheap night tonight. Phil, the Essex fellah bought Fantastic Four (part 2) in the market ($2.50) so we watched that and had a few beers. Not a bad film..better than 1st one. Went to bed and found an old Mexican bloke snoring in the Dorm (Praise the earplugs and eye mask..he really was belting it out).

Woke up feeling a bit sad as I was leaving this beautiful city and some good people at the hostel but it was time to move on. Really looking forward to my Spanish classes, wherever I do them. After brief farewells I got to the bus terminal at 10.20. I was aiming to get to Mexico city before dark (not sure if its just rumours but the city has to be approached with some caution. A population of 20 million and a few stories of kidnappings..including dodgy taxi's. The bus ride was $46 and lasted 7.5 hours.

Not much to see outside during the ride as it was pretty flat so slept and watched the usual film provided (Night at the Museum..not bad, Eragorn..also not bad..but both in Spanish). Also chatted to a Mexican chap called Gilbert (unusual name for a Mexican..I think) who'd lived in the US for 6 months. This was like finding Gold Dust as he offered to show me round the city tomorrow. He, to practice his English and me to practice my Spanish and see the sites with a local (great stuff).

Driving through the city I could see just how bloody big the place was...massive). Getting a taxi from the bus depot to the hostel is quite a process and because of kidnappings you shouldn't take just any taxi but a registered one inside the terminal. First you pay at a desk, then you're taken by one of the staff to the taxi where a security guy checks the ticket and taxi drivers credentials. (cost $8...shit). Not sure how real these stories of kidnappings are but I'm not taking any chances until I get my bearings.

The Hostal Catedral was my choice of stay here. Great location and cheap (apparently). First impressions weren't that good of the hostel..about 200 beds, 2 bars and a restaurant. The kind of environment where allot of students just hang out and maybe not go out and see things. We'll see. People here didn't seem as friendly as other places (big city I guess). Early night tonight...at the moment chilling on one of many balconies here working out what to do tomorrow.

The plan is to stay here 3 days but maybe longer.Main things I want to see are the Museum of Anthropology (world famous), some Aztec ruins scattered outside of the city and also allot of old buildings and sites within the city.

Woke up very early and had the included breakfast. Was feeling a bit overwhelmed to be in such a big city after being in such small towns but eventually went out for a stroll. Jesus the place is packed out with people. The area I'm staying in is called the Centro Historico which is basically where all the good stuff to see is (Churches, Cathedral, Museums, Galleries etc.). One thing I've been told about this city is that the air is rank. After the first night here I've developed a persistent chesty cough. I'm not the only one..in the hostel and around town everyone is coughing and spitting. The pollution and smog here is terrible (smoking has been cut down..its just too painful).

As agreed with my new Mexican mate Gilbert I called him up and he met me in the town square. He took me on a whirlwind tour of the historical area and then we had a look at the Templo Mayor (ruins of a 500 year old Aztec temple village right next to the Cathedral). Entry was $4.50 and sorry to say it wasn't really worth the money..there was very little left of it due to Spanish destruction and building on top of any good structures. The only real bonus was a museum of Aztec artefacts...some really beautiful pieces: masks, jewellery, toys, stonework and weapons.

Next Gilbert treated me to a Mexican pancake filled with meat, cheese, chilli and a strange green bean type vegetable that had the texture of a snails trail (nasty to see) but tasted good ($1). Then it was time to test out the infamous Mexico city Metro full.of muggings, pocket dipping and all sorts. Needless to say one of the above happened. It was very obvious when it happened but there was an attempted picking of the pockets. He wasn't very good..he had a big fur coat wrapped round his arm and he barged into me and at the same time stuck his hand in my pocket. He was shit...even I could have done a better job. All he got was a handful of chewing gum (as I don't keep cash in any top pockets) and I just laughed at him as he rushed off to check his booty of Wrigleys wrappers and possibly one good piece of gum (nearly went after him for that). Great system the Metro here. You pay 20c for the journey anywhere in the city and a train comes almost every 5 min's.

Eventually after 3 changes (yes, even Gilbert, a local lad got lost..we were only supposed to change twice) we arrived at the famous Museum of Anthropology. Entry was $4.50 and worth every penny. They have 10,000 original pieces rescued from the Spanish scamps who systematically destroyed anything Native to these parts. Everything ranging from early settlers to Oaxican to Mayan to Aztec. Some amazing objects like sacrificial stones, bodies that were sacrificed (totally wrecked bones from being bludgeoned after the heart was cut out), very intricate gold jewellery (not much left after the Spaniards melted it all down), weapons of all kinds and even a surviving goal from a game similar to football where they use their thighs to get a ball in the net (the winners of these games were sacrificed to the Gods...well, who wouldn't want to be..its the highest honour).

After 5 hours of intense culture (and missing another siesta I might add) it was time to head back to town. Caught the taking down of the huuuuge Mexican flag from the main square by loads of soldiers playing drums and trumpets. It was quite a spectacle..especially since it was absolutely bucketing down (made me homesick for the weather in Blighty for all of 2 min's). As I had my trusty Mexican speaking guide and new mate with me I asked him to find out where it was possible to get rolling tobacco in this fair city. Well, we checked and checked..then checked more and it was nowhere to be found. (I give up). Gilbert had to head home as he hadn't seen his Dad for 6 months (apart from yesterday) as he was in the US learning English. He's 21 and a qualified architect. Quite a sad life story..Mum died when he was 11 and his only brother died in a car crash 4 years later. He's now looking for work in Mexico city and seems quite confident about getting a job. Apparently a web designer earns roughly $500-800 a month here (not sure if I could work here).

Back to the hostel for some chill time then headed out for a quick bite. Found a stall selling 3 hot dogs for $1.50 (with fresh tomato, onions and Chillies..very nice). Got chatting to an Aussie girl about to leave for home who kindly gave me her Spanish phrase book, a pair of headphones and a Lonely Planet Central America guidebook (this swiftly flew in the bin once she'd gone). Also chatted to a Dutch fellah who lives in London who immediately decided to show me something in (yes in...not on) the base of his foot. He had some kind of insect/ worm making a thin red path around his foot under the skin...and he's had it there for 2 weeks (Sweet Jesus..well impressed). I told him to see a doctor here (he was going to wait until he got to the UK in 3 days). After I told him my African Jigger story I think he's going to go tomorrow.

Mexico city is awash with rain and thunder tonight so just going to take it easy. The plan for the next week is 2 more days in Mexico city (if my lungs will allow it) so I can visit one of the great Aztec ruin and pyramid sites and also catch a Mexican wrestling match (Lucha Libre...after watching the film Nacho Libre with Jack Black I just had to go) then head to a town called Oaxaca for a few days to see more ruins at Monte Alban.

Following this (after the Dutch fellah told me in a very hushed voice and so secretly I thought he was going to go on about a secret map and a beach) I'll head to a little know beach called Mazunte (shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh) where nobody goes (apparently) and hammocks are for hire at $3 a night and are strung between palm trees on the beach (can't bloody wait). Ok latest is...as of today (22nd) I'll be in Mexico city a while longer. Am now bogged down with a bad flu. Visited Doctors for a Malaria check today just to be on the safe side but was a cool negative result. Just gonna take it easy for a couple of days (still might go to this Mexican party in a few days though...Tequila could be classed as a medicine?)

Today was ancient ruins visiting day so using my new knowledge of the Metro system I headed on it and reached the northern-most station (20c). From there it was a 1 hour local bus ride to Teotihuacan ($2.80)(the hostel does day trips here but are really expensive at $25..by going alone I cut the cost by more than half). Teotihuacan people pre-dated the Mayans and Aztecs and very little is known about them. That's why these city ruins are so special. They are 4 km in length from South to North. At its Southern point sits the Citadel and far North is the Pyramid of the Moon, the Pyramid of the Sun sitting between these.

What was left was pretty impressive and climbing the hundreds of steep steps to the top of the highest pyramid the Pyramid of the Sun was exhausting but well worth it for the view. I also climbed the Pyramid of the Moon to get a special view all the way through the city's ruins. Only one complaint about the whole experience (not sure if I was particularly grumpy because a bad bout of flu had just reared its ugly head) but everywhere you go are street vendors who follow you around trying to sell their goods. Just as you reach a beautiful view of a ruin and want to immerse yourself in it you'd hear footsteps behind and a voice calling "$1..$1 only" (wish I brought my earplugs with me). Apart from that it wasn't too busy and an enjoyable experience.

Time to head back at 5pm after wandering around the ruins for 5 hours. I was feeling well rough at this point and headed straight back to the hostel and plonked myself in bed. Really pissed off because Gilbert and his family invited me to a cousins 15th birthday party on Saturday (anyone's 15th is a huge celebration in Mexico) and I'm sure I won't be ok for it.

As predicted felt even worse today. Checked out of the noisy, packed hostel (didn't really like the place anyway..just full of people who stay there and party amongst themselves...all German and English all the time..don't even go outside the hostel, plebs) and found a cheap hotel ($11 a night..compared to the hostel's $14 this was a bargain. Stocked up on food and water and just sweated it out (have my own TV here so that's a result).

Tomorrow morning gotta see a doctor for a Malaria test (just in case...because the start of contracting Malaria is identical to a bad flu..as I know too well from Africa).

Went to the doctors first thing. Malaria test was a negative (well, had to check). It's always a bit nerve-wracking talking to doctors and they don't understand me and me them. At one point he was about to give me a Hepatitis B injection. (where the hell did he get that idea from). Spent the next 2 hours finding the right Pharmacy for my prescription (some kind of Aspirin and Vit C no doubt).

Mexico seems to have a thriving pharmaceutical drugs business. Every chemist was packed with people even queuing outside. Either they're hypochondriacs here in the city or the city is just plain bad for them. Stayed in bed most of the day and felt allot better by evening and was pretty much raring to go to this birthday bash.

Was picked up by Gilbert and his family at 7 and we headed straight to the party. I was feeling a bit scruffy..everyone was suited up and there's me with my trekking shoes (with slight mud colour accent), combat trousers and short-slieved shirt (it was cool, later on I saw a few people in jeans and T-shirt). The venue was a huge hall all finely decorated and a big stage at the side. Reminded me of a grand wedding do (balloons, confetti, table decorations, take-away gifts).

Apparently Gilbert has 24 cousins (holy shit) and he pointed them out to me. I sat at his family's table (quite an honour) which seated 12 people. Apart from him and his parents all the other people were his fit female cousins and sisters (hmmm, what to do). Communication as usual was a major problem and after the many times my official translator would disappear for half an hour I would resort to my famous hand signs (after a few Tequilas this ended up looking like manic rave moves).

After 2 hours of the birthday girl doing choreographed dance moves with her 6 male cousins (the dancing was pretty cool) dinner was served (good timing as I was about to start thumping the table with impatience..hunger holds no bounds when I get hungry). At 10.30 the moment everyone was waiting for arrived...dancing time. I'd made the unfortunate mistake of mentioning I'd done a bit of Salsa dancing to Gilbert and the big mouth mentioned it to everyone on the table. Talk about pressure. (I did try and deny it by saying I'd eaten Salsa before..not danced it but they just laughed).

First up was Gilberto's big sister (25 and very stunning). She was very patient with my moves. We danced for about 3 tracks and then sat down (what I didn't mention is that I'm on antibiotics..which doesn't help foot movement I think but I was counting on the Tequila to override that one).

Next was sister number 2 (19 and..'wow'). Again 3 dances and that was it. I thought I was getting better at this point but the only female willing to dance with me next (the others claimed tiredness) was Gilberts Mum. This was cool because she actually showed me some steps and moves. I never would have thought it but most Mexicans are really good dancers. Must be the Ladino blood.

By 4am I'd had a few more dances with big sis Sylvia which was good fun. I impressed her with my Hip Hop moves (I think). Gilberto the drunken youngster was playing the goat and trying to set me up with her (as well as most of his family..at one point I'm sure he was trying to set me up with his Aunt). The father wasn't too impressed.

At 5am they brought on the Mariachi band. 14 immaculately dressed Mexicans all in white with shiny bits everywhere and huuuuge hats. Apparently what the Mexicans do when they have a party is go to a place in town called Gariboldi where the Mariachi's play (hundreds of them) and hire them for the special day. Quite pricey too. By this time all the blokes were doing the Mexican wail/ laugh (can never work out which one) whenever a sad tune was played.

Sadly I was too far down the Tequila line to even think of taking pictures of the Mariachi band (great shame) but I was too busy explaining the merits of Tattoos, English football and trying to prove that the Queen didn't actually kill Diana herself, using hand gestures. Apparently I was chatting away to one cousin for an hour solid (even though he couldn't speak a word of English) about Football. The conversation would go something like this: me "Gary Linekar, bueno", him "si, Paul Gascoine, bueno", me "Pele, bueno", him "si, David Beckham, bueno" and so on.... (poor fella) A great night for me..really enjoyed it. Shit..the Mexicans really know how to party (no sign of any trouble either..and the Tequila was flowing freely).

As well as 2 phone numbers I was invited to another cousins birthday in December (I may be in Chile by then) and Gilberts older brothers wedding in Feb (may be in Australia by then). I'll have to see how much flights are. Rolled into my hotel at 7am. God help my head tomorrow.

Felt rougher than a pigs arse this morning. Made a valiant effort to see some sights but made it as far as the shop round the corner. I was still drunk so my Spanish was pretty good (it always improves when I'm pissed..or so I think) Have today only just realised why the hotel guy always looks at me strangely when I ask him for my room key. My room number is 505 which in my rough Spanish should be 'cinco cien cinco'..but what I have been saying is 'cinco siento cinco' which roughly translated means '5 sorry 5' (bloody hell).

Because of the above mistake and the lack of communication at the party I've invested in a digital translator this afternoon. Just type in the english word and it shows the Spanish. That should hold me in good stead until my Spanish course in Guatemala. Today was about recovery and decided that the day after tomorrow was time to leave the big city. I'd done most of what I wanted and I'd pretty much stayed the extra 2 days for the party (and I was illin).

Still feeling rough but recovered. Went for a long walk in town and caught the Metro to see where I get the long distance bus from tomorrow. On the Metro you get quite allot of busker's and these guys selling cd's. They have a small backpack on their back with just a big speaker inside and they walk from carriage to carriage blaring good..and some downright terrible tunes (at one point I found myself nodding along to the Papa Smurf song in Spanish from their Smurf compilation cd..what a tuuuuune).

In the afternoon on the Metro its pretty much the same as on the Underground..full of tired people from work or to work sleeping and reading papers (God I love being away from all that). Early evening went to meet Gilbert and his family for a farewell drink in Coyoacan. A lovely place with walking parks and old buildings (this is where Cortes the evil Spaniard launched his attack on the Aztecs). Had a few beers followed by some traditional Mexican hot chocolate (very tasty with spices and cinnamon).

I'm not that keen on cities when I travel. I remember in Africa every city I visited blended into one and I ended up forgetting which was which. Most cities are the same to me but just with a few major differences...but Mexico city has allot going for it. I like it allot. I may be back for more... Back to my cheap and seedy hotel and asked for the key number correctly this time (no more smirks from the hotel guy).

The hotel is seedy because I suspect every room is rented by the hour. Its in the middle of a market, has dingy rooms and each and every one has a mirrored ceiling (chuckle) and most nights at 2am you can hear couples coming up the stairs. The cheapest hotels in my guidebook all seem to be like this. Gilbert's family were shocked when I told them where I stayed and said it was well rough round there (looked all right to me).

Overslept this morning by...erm..3 hours. Was supposed to be up at 8 to catch the 9am bus. Reached the bus terminal at 11.30 and was told the next bus doesn't leave till 12.50 and I'll have to wait at Puebla for 2 hours for a connecting bus to Oaxaca. Getting used to waiting alot..its the way it is when you travel round these parts. Reached Puebla at 3 and just lounged around the terminal and at 4.45 got ready to get on the bus (which I was told was the correct one).

Apparently it was the wrong bus and after asking two bus drivers which was the correct one they both said different things (bollox) so after asking at the ticket counter I was told I was in the wrong place, I need to cross the road and get the bus there. Just as I got there my bus pulled away and no amount of shouting and arm waving stopped it. So back to the ticket office and I had to buy a new ticket, although at half price its still a wasted $15.

Next bus was at 5.50 (meaning I'd get to Oaxaca at 11pm). Finally got the bus and as became the pattern of this day the journey was late due to road blocks. I arrived in Oaxaca at 1.30am. Quick trip in the taxi to my budget hotel ($12 a night...just a bed, table and light at the hotel Lupita) and fell asleep like a log.

First thing for the day was a trip to the laundry. I was starting to look and smell like a short-haired Worzul Gumage or to put it into a realistic perspective I smelt like my mate Arthurs socks. Also had some early morning internet stuff to do. Having allot of trouble uploading my photos from the camera to my server...just too many pics and the connections are quite slow here. Had a snack lunch and then walked around town. Very nice place Oaxaca; narrow streets, modern shops hidden in old colonial buildings, churches everywhere and friendly people.

The main square was abuzz with people chatting and drinking coffee and eating Taco's. At 6pm (as is within most cities here) the local army march out of the state building playing loud marching music to lower the beloved Mexican flag (they really do take great pride in their flag). Then had a look at the stunning Santo Domingo church. From the outside it looks pretty decent but when you go inside it is amazing. Lots of intricate gold leaf on the ceilings and walls, gold and white everywhere, small paintings of religious themes everwhere. Best church I've seen in a long time. It started to rain pretty heavily by 7pm so decided it was time to catch up on some film action so got a taxi to the cinema complex ($3). Sort of picked the wrong day as it was 2 for the price of one. The place was heaving with couples (looked kinda odd by myself).

I'm a huge fan of Zombie and Apocalyptic films so I chose Resident Evil 3 ($2.50). As far as zombie films go it was pretty decent. Some of the acting was a bit moody but still good (still prefer Resident Evil 1 though). The plan for tomorrow is to go and see the Monte Alban city ruins of the 5th century BC. It's quite unique as it was built on a hill top with very difficult access.

Woke up early to do some chores and see the dentist. Much easier than seeing a doctor.. just point at the tooth and go "ooooooooh". I had a cavity which was giving me jibb. 20 min's and $10 later it was fixed. My main mission today was to see the ancient Monte Alban ruins. They are 7 miles out of town so a bus was the only budget way of going ($4). Quite amazing..it was the first purpose built ancient city and strangely was built on top of a small mountain with no access to water and just a very rough path leading to it. As with most ancient ruins I've seen there wasn't much left except the lower levels but it was still amazing to see. There was even an outdoor ball pitch (not quite Wembley but impressive).

Can't wait to see the Palenque ruins...still in good condition and surrounded by jungle). While I was waiting for the bus back to town got chatting to an old hippie fella from Bilbao, Spain. He was traveling around Mexico and Guatemala for 3 months. During our conversation I mentioned going to Mazunte (the secret beach) and a slow smile came across his face (ahaaaaaaa). He asked me how I found out about it and I told him about the Dutch fella. Apparently he was going there in a week too and loves the place. You can even swim with giant turtles the size of doors (holy shit..can't wait).

Got back to town early afternoon and yet again tried to upload a measly 500MB of photos to my file server. Nope..it would take 23 hours to do so plan B. I have to burn them onto CD and use the notoriously dodgy Mexican postal service (more like help yourself to Gringo stuff post service) ($4 using 'Registered mail'...we'll see). The people in Oaxaca seem to be allot friendlier than anywhere else in Mexico...and boy are they proud of their humble city. Has allot going for it...loads to see, nice people (more Mayan looking than further west) beautiful buildings and streets, good climate and allot of history.

Ok, forget about the climate bit, the whole afternoon was a washout. The usual tropical downpour with thunder and lightning. Had a coffee in the main plaza (very quiet). Back at the hotel I was in line behind a threesome of 2 Aussie girls and an English fella. One of the girls was paying for their room and the hotel guy didn't have change so she turned around and shouted "bloody hell, this would never happen in Sydney" (for some reason this really touched a nerve in me and I politely asked the hotel guy for my key and as I walked past her I muttered "you're not in bloody Sydney now, you're in MEXICO". (I heard her say.."what did he say?" as I walked on) (Jesus, some people really shouldn't travel). Very quiet night of packing, getting supplies (apparently there are no shops in Mazunte..woohhooo) and finishing this weeks blog.

Hope I'm not bigging up the beach too much..it might the Mexican equivalent of Clackton on Sea. Tomorrow I get the bus to the nearest town to Mazunte called Pochutla. Its a 12 hour bus ride (takes ages in rainy season because the roads are well steep and in the rainy season (now) there are landslides. I'll stay 1 night in Pochutla then first thing get a local bus (colletivo...basically a mini bus filled with chickens, locals and possible one stray goat that belongs to nobody).

Plan to stay at least 5 days beaching it with the turtles..may even help out there as they've got a small turtle conservation project going there (well, I've done ostrich conservation...why not turtles). After that my last 2 stops in Mexico; the beautiful town of San Cristobal de la Casas and lastly the ruins of Palenque set in tropical forest. After that, Guatamala here I come.

Spent most of the morning trying to upload my photos to the blog and my own server (yet again). Had no luck as it was too slow so in desperation left the uploads running and left (hope nobody messes with it). After a short walk arrived at the local bus depot (a very disheveled looking place) and bought my ticket to Pochutla ($7.50). The bus was the usual scruffy old US school bus with crunching gears, noisy engine and diesel smoke blasting in but a good safe journey anyway.

When I get local buses I always check out the driver to make sure he's not pissed, crazy or just plain stupid (always did this in Africa after a horrifying bus journey to Windhoek, Namibia where the driver was not only pissed, but he only had one eye and was plain stupid. The bus nearly crashed 3 times and after the last near fatal incident where the bus skidded nearly 360 degrees after he misjudged a turn everyone got out, gave the driver some serious abuse and caught a different one).

In all the journey took 7 hours. There was some amazing scenery of mountains, forest and some pretty villages but the ride was extremely winding and steep. Quite a few passengers vomited on the bus and an old lady sitting in front of me yakked almost for the whole journey. It took a monumental effort for me not to join in this vomiting choir, what with the smell and noise. My solution was to just simply fall asleep...always works in desperation.

Arrived in Pochutla just as it was getting dark. I had two choices; stay here for the night then catch a small local bus to the fabled Mazunte beach in the morning or head straight there. A taxi driver made the choice for me when he asked me if I wanted to go to Mazunte for $10 (overpriced I thought (mind you it is a 25 minute drive) but I just wanted to get there). Reached Mazunte in pitch dark not knowing where to go for lodgings. Had a quick mosy around and found a bar right next to the beach and asked about a hammock or room (Cabanas Uri...really nice and friendly old fella owns it). A hammock slung across some trees (slightly away from the beach) would set me back $3 and a room with a gorgeous view and directly on the beach would be $10.

The sound of thunder in the distance made the choice easy...the room it was. Lovely 2nd floor spacy wood and brick room with big beds (yes 2 double beds) and a straight view of the crashing waves and palm trees. No regrets at all as an hour later a super storm hit the area with a torrential downpour and crashing thunder (i suspect being suspended between two trees wouldn't be the best place to avoid lightning). The storm went on through the night and with the added sound of crashing waves it almost felt apocalyptic.

After the storm died down had a late night stroll down the beach and saw the place really was as small as expected. A few restaurant bars and a few shacks with allot of weed smoking hippies was all that could be seen (excellent). Every group of New Agers were gathered round and playing bongo's..some good...some just plain terrible (too much weed). My mate Frank would love the place if only he fixed his own bongos. The Mosquitos are ravenous and persistent beyond belief here. Got in to shower and before I'd even finished they were onto me. They must have formed some kind of orderly line and waited for their moment. Drying myself involved allot of hopping around and shaking to try and keep them off until I could put insect repellant on. As I remember too well from Africa getting into bed with a mosquito net is never an easy thing. First off you have to set the thing up making sure all corners are tightly tucked in (they can bite you through the net if your toes or any...I mean any, sensitive parts are touching the net). Then you have to quickly jump inside it before the little critters find a weak spot in the defence (also making sure you don't lift a ton of sand in with you). Lastly, and this should be done before doing anything else, is to check the net for holes and patch them. This last and very important part I forgot in my tiredness so at 3am I woke myself scratching profusely..yes, a sneaky brigade of mosquitos had found a weakness...a huge gaping hole in the net. I patched this with my ever handy roll of duct tape (i can't stress enough how useful the stuff has been..I've used it to repair trousers, my pack, repair a book, block a leaking roof, seal a leaking bottle..the list goes on).

Woke up to the sound of crashing waves, bright sunshine and birds singing (gorgeous) and went for a stroll. I'd been warned that the currents here and the waves especially were lethal (at least 3 people die in this area every year from either but I suspect they were smoking too much at the time) and boy did the waves look serious. They were huge and they broke right by the shoreline so anyone attempting a swim had to time it just right and then make a dash for it. I wasn't quite ready so opted for a pineapple milkshake at a beach bar until the time was right. Got chatting to a local fella and found out he does boat trips to see the turtles and dolphins in the area. The price was pretty hefty at $15 but worth every penny.

The trip was with 2 couples; couple 1 French fella from Paris and his long-term Mexican girlfriend (who talked to me too much..apparently to practice her English) and couple 2 from East Germany (really nice pair and well pleased they could speak German to me). First task of the trip (and not to be taken lightly considering the current and wave situation) was for all of us to help get the boat out. This was pretty tough because at one point the boat was nearly tipped with a huge wave. Eventually got going and almost immediately some dolphins started following us and dived in and out of the water either side. Then suddenly one of the boat workers just dived in the water and disappeared.

A minute later he came up not alone but holding a turtle. Everyone jumped in to have a look at it...it was beautiful and about as big as from my toes to my belly. I held onto his shell for a while and touched his head. He didn't make any noises..just moved his head around. After a while the poor fella was getting agitated so we asked for him to be let go. Boy was he fast going straight down into the deep. I shouted out "go duuuuuuude" (a Finding Nemo reference..just in case anyone thinks I've gone all Californian). Saw loads more turtles just basking on the surface of the sea and some even mating (this lasts for a colossal 5 hours apparently). Again saw loads of dolphins jumping around but the cheeky scamps were just too quick to get close or get a good photo. Turtle hunting used to be very prolific here but thankfully in 1990 it stopped and they can now enjoy the protection from the locals. Mazunte beach is one of beaches where the turtles come out from the water at night to lay their eggs. Unfortunately for me that happens in the beginning of August (Doh!). Mind you, I'm sure its not too good for them to have loads of tourists shining torches at them as they come out to lay the eggs.

Next got to a small island of stone called Isla Blanco which is a huge rock totally covered with birds..very impressive. Then time for some snorkelling. Saw some huge illuminous blue fish, big round white and yellow ones and shoals of tiny black ones with white dots on their tails. Then back to our beach where we had to wait 10 minutes for the right moment to put the boat in (it was like a military operation). We all had a slap up lunch at the bar and chatted about east German politics, English football and I tried to explain the rules of cricket to the Mexican girl (me not being remotely interested in cricket I gave up after 5 min's).

Had a look around the various places to stay and it turns out my first choice was the right one. All other places didn't have a direct view of the beach (obstructed by either a bar or restaurant). There are some better and pricier hotels up on small hills with a hammock on the patio and a room behind it but for me being right on the beach was heaven. Now I was ready to brave the sea. It took at least 5 minutes just to get into the water. After about 40 huge waves there was a lull and I ran straight in like a maniac and only just about made it past the breakers. Very refreshing and relaxing swim and so nice to be in water again.

After the usual siesta it began to piss down so I just chilled in my room with a view and with the sound of crashing waves read more of my only casual reading book, Bill Bryson's 'A short history of nearly everything'. This is the first real chance I've had to read it on this trip and what a great book it is (I've been carrying it around for 2 months now). Tonight I'll be prepared for the mosquitos. With there being a torrential downpour I also had time to make a list of my travel gear. I'm always interested in what other people pack on their travels and this list may be needed for myself as at some point my stuff may be forcefully or sneakily nicked off me as I venture into tougher travel areas.

Clothes:

1 pair long trousers
1 pair shorts
1 pair thin tracksuit bottoms (for laundry day so I have something to wear)
1 short-slieved shirt
3 T-shirts
3 underwear
2 pairs socks (1 heavy duty hiking, 1 standard hiking)
1 pair swimming shorts
1 hat
1 pair sport sandals
1 pair brown walking shoes (painstakingly picked for style and colour so they can double as evening shoes)
1 micro-fleece hooded (rolled up and strapped to packs side)
1 waterproof jacket (folded and stashed behind packs frame)
Micro travel towel
Silk sleeping sheet

Main gear

35 Litre Black Wolf pack (as small as a comfy pack gets)
Pack of 10 london souvenir key rings (gifts for people I meet and stay with)
2 guide books (Footprint Mexico and Central America and Footprint South America Handbook)
8 pairs good earplugs (did have 10 but lost 2 already)
1 silk eye mask
2 pairs glasses (always stashed in different places)
universal sink plug
torch
small roll of duct tape (real essential item)
water proof money belt
paper diary (for notes and numbers)
2 mini padlocks
1 padlock with enforced cable (useful for buses and in room. Just tie it through packs locks and then around large object and is a decent deterrent)
small sowing kit
Sun cream
mosquito repellant
multivitamins
plasters
aspirin
painkillers
diarriah tablets
motion sickness tablets
antibiotic cream
malaria treatment
small toilet roll
small bottle shampoo
small soaps (borrowed from various hotels)
Electrical Nokia 9500 communicator +spare battery +USB charger cable
Fujifilm Finepix F31fd +charger cable +spare memory card
Universal travel mains and USB charger
Zen stone 1gb MP3 player +Small USB cable
Pocket English and Spanish electronic dictionary
4 spare batteries

After all the rain last night I thought today would be a washout. Not so. Woke up to another glorious day of sunshine and crashing waves. Went for an early morning walk along the beach and not a soul in sight. A few groups of hippies were sitting by the bar (still up from last night apparently) so I sat nearby and listened to one of them play some tunes on the guitar (great guitar play but just plain awful singing on Stairway to Heaven..I nearly burst out laughing but resisted). This place is quite a hippie hangout. It's fairly cheap for lodging, food is cheap, beach is beautiful, locals are laid back and the weed is good (cheap as chips...$10 will get you a bag the size of a brick).

Something weird happened to me last night. Was cutting my toe nails when suddenly the whole toe nail from my little toe just fell off. Really weird..never happened to me before. No blood or anything, just open flesh underneath (I suspect its either the weed here, I'm not eating properly or I'm changing into The Fly). A touch of antibiotic cream every day and the healing powers of the sea should sort it out.

Went for a morning swim and frolicked around in the waves. They aren't as powerful today so did some body surfing and got totally wiped out doing two 360 degree flips (didn't do that again). Lounged around the beach awhile and then headed for lunch. Had a delicious grilled fish with chips and salad + 2 freshly squeezed orange juices..all for $7. Met up with Marcus and Theresa (the East German couple from yesterday) and had a chat. They're off to San Cristobal tonight and then Palenque. They're always jealous of me because of my length of travel and always taking the piss (they've only got 3 weeks of travel...doh!).

Went for more swimming and then found out from someone that there was an internet place down the road. Quickly headed there as I was well worried about leaving my photo upload running in Oaxaca (no telling if somebody had erased or destroyed the blog). Everything was cool though. Paid for another 2 nights stay in my room with a view and went for a siesta. Just as I was dozing off I heard a scrabbling sound above me, looked up and there was a Hermit crab the size of a fist staring at me from between the joists. What the hell was he doing up there...and more importantly how the hell did he get up there? Wasn't easy trying to sleep with that big lump directly above my head. After siesta time at 6 headed to the beach where everyone hangs out in groups and shares de herb. Tales were being regaled about a local girl who can get a kg of the finest for 300 peso's ($30 or £15 for a K..sweet Jesus).

Had a few swims and a few beers then bid farewell to Marcus and Theresa who were off to San Cristobal. Asked around about helping with the turtles and it seems they have people asking nearly every day...so much demand. I doubt my Ostrich work would swing it. Also, my lack of Spanish wouldn't help in the field. Had a chat with an Italian guy (Fabio). Poor fella had been robbed in Puerto Escondido (about 70km away). He was walking back from a bar at 1am (not the smartest thing to do really...after 11pm gotta take taxis..no question). Four Mexicans had jumped him and at gun point taken everything he had (which luckily for him was only $7). So he'd come here to Mazunte to chill and try and forget.

Also had a chat with a German (yes..they're everywhere here) who's lived in Guatamala for 4 years and bought a plot of land there where he is just about finished building his house. He recommended Lake Atitlan for Spanish learning. Beautiful setting and cheaper than other places. Back to my room (otherwise known as Mazunte zoo) for a cheap dinner of tinned tuna and bread. My pet Hermit Crab (now christened Herbie) has seemed to have grown (can crabs eat wood?). I also have 2 small lizards that scuttle around the wooden beams (doing a better job than Herbie anyway..at least they're eating the insects and hopefully some mosquitos. He just sits there and sleeps).

Caught a bit too much sun today so earlyish night tonight. Thought about sleeping in hammock tonight but because of the rains they're all under cover of a shelter behind the beach. Much better where I am now.

Woke up to yet another gorgeous day of sunshine, palm trees and crashing waves. After the morning shower and waking up properly I came to realise that I had done Herbie a great injustice. He is in no way a hermit crab but is a giant lizard (no wonder he doesn't do anything). Sorry pal. Went for an early morning swim with the whole beach to myself then walked to the beach cafe for breakfast (tea and fruit pancakes $2.50). Again, nobody around..everyone's still sound asleep.

After more swimming and topping up the tan went for the usual siesta. Then met up with the German and Italian couple (Karsten & Louisa) and Fabio from Udine, Italy and had a chat into the late afternoon. Then joined by Anna a Slovenian girl traveling through the Americas. We all went for dinner at the usual cafe and after the usual spliffs were passed around conversation went to a whole new level of nonsense (all good stuff). We all decided to form a band; Anna on keyboard, me on drums, Fabio on sax and Karsten and Louisa on vocals (a band destined for failure because after our first attempt at Bob Dylans 'Knocking on Heavens Door' even the stray (and normally quiet) dogs were howling in sympathy. We soon stopped the singing so we could concentrate on the drinking instead.

Time to call it a night when, as is always the case when people are mashed, Fabio lost his keys in the sand..and then Anna lost hers too. It took a whole hour for us stoners to systematically dig in the sand (never found them in the end and watching them from a not-quite-as-stoned perspective I realised wherever one person was digging and finished there the next person would dig in the same place... ). Getting back to my room with a view is no easy task from the cafe because there's a big rock separating the beaches. During the day its fairly straight-forward..you just wait for the last big crashing wave and then leg it but at night and without a torch its a bloody nightmare. I had to crawl across the rock on all fours taking 10 minutes.

After successfully conquering this hurdle I then walked straight into a palm tree (no damage but a bruised shoulder and instant wake up). The icing on the cake would've been a coconut landing on my tender head.

Sleep time..with Herbie the lizard still staring at me from the roof joists and he's now got 2 Gekko's with him (hope they don't see me as some kind of snack?).

Have decided to leave Mazunte tonight and catch the night bus to San Cristobal del Casas. Not that I don't love the place but as each day passes the thought of my Spanish classes in Guatamala keeps pushing me on. The sooner I get that done the sooner I can appreciate Latin speaking America more. Mazunte really is what the Dutch fella promised...although not as secret as he made out. There are usually around 25 travelers there at any point.

As is usual, a super glorious day and after checking that all my limbs were intact (in case Herbie snacked on me without me waking up) I found the scoundrel sitting above the window (I suspect he's after a bit of attention). Early morning swim and the usual rollicking in the waves for an hour. Very tough for me to leave the water but was starting to look like a red prune. Had a nice Ham Omelette and tea for breakfast at the usual beach cafe ($3.50) and chatted to the Bilboan hippie I'd met at the Monte Alban ruins In Oaxaca. Fabio showed up and said he slept on the beach for a while last night (no keys) but the Sand Flies were too hungry and bit him to pieces. Then the hotel manager showed up absolutely smashed and tried to help find the keys (digging in the same holes as last night no doubt). In the end he just gave him a spare key.

Me and Karsten decided to try some boogey boarding as the waves were just too tempting. Asked around about hiring boards but most places were well pricey at $10 an hour (pffff). Eventually a couple of local kids lent us theirs for $2 an hour. The boarding all started well with me catching some good waves and then slicing into the sand but it quickly deteriorated and I mistimed a huge wave badly. I must have done about 4 spins under water and at some point my head nearly got stuck in the sand (the irony wasn't lost on me there..not the Ostriches but me this time). Had a few more tries and then decided to call it a day with the boarding and stick to just splashing about in the waves. All day and all night after that bits of sand and water were coming out of my nose, ears and mouth (not nice).

After lunch the beach is always quiet as its siesta time. Had a kip myself and then did more swimming and chilling. Allot of people have asked me to swap books with them when I've finished (it seems A Short History of Nearly Everything is a very sought after book with the New Age hippies here) but there's no way I'm going to rush it. Evening time is beach chill out time for everyone and clusters of travelers and locals gather and chat and exchange spliffs (good atmosphere). I had one last swim and then went to pack. Met up with Fabio, Anna, Karston and Louisa for my farewell dinner (very nice).They are also all leaving tomorrow which is another reason for me going. You tend to meet really good people whilst traveling and its always a bit sad to see people leave. After dinner at 9pm went in search of a bus to Pochutla and found absolutely nothing...not even a taxi. Was pretty much set to stay another night (no problem for me really) but came across a stall where I asked for transport to Pochutla. The woman called out to her husband..a small disagreement ensued and reluctantly the guy said he'd take me for $10 (same price as a taxi).

It was quite a scary drive..no street lighting and the guy was bombing it and blaring reggae sounds at full blast (Mazunte has a sort of Caribbean feel to it..although I've never been there I imagine this is what its like; beautiful beaches, very laid back people, reggae played everywhere and the streets are paved with weed). Arrived at the bus station with 10 minutes to go (only 2 buses leave for San Cristobal...one at 7.45pm and mine at 10.45pm) and it dawned on me I didn't have any cash on me for the $34 ticket. A quick sprint to the bank down the road and I only just made it.

Chatted to Andrew (Aussie fella over here for a 14 day travel). Will meet up for a beer with him day after tomorrow.

Although I dozed a few times during the 11 hour bus journey I felt pretty knackered by the time I reached San Cristobal. There were quite a few hostel touts waiting outside the bus terminal. Seems there's no shortage of hostels and hotels here. Shared a taxi with Andrew and had a quick look at his hotel. Way too pricey at $24 a night for me so walked around town looking for somewhere cheap.

Found a nice laid back, cheap and small hostel called Posada Mi Casa. No dorm beds (usually $5) but settled for an Economy room at $10 a night. I have a garden with hammocks to enjoy (nice). A few chores to do and especially laundry. Everything I have has various amounts of sand in it so cleaned everything (including myself...as the Cabanas Uri had decided to shut off the water supply on my last day. I'm sure I brought a few kg's of sand with me on the bus).

Siesta time and then went looking for the local hospital. I have some vaccination boosters to get. Hospital was too busy (sounds familiar) so have to come back tomorrow. Instead walked around town. Very beautiful city with long, narrow cobbled roads and little squares everywhere. In the main square there was a political event going on. The potential candidate had laid on a fair and had some live bands playing. Watched it for a bit then found a restaurant called 'Economico' and had chicken, rice, salad, tortilla's and a juice for $2 (my kinda place).

Have started to notice that there are far more Mayans here than I've seen elsewhere and the people are extremely friendly. Still a bit jaded from the long bus journey so a quiet night tonight. Bought a chocolate drink, sat in the city square and chilled for a bit Then back to the hostel for an early night. The plan for the next week is one more day here in San Cristobal then bus it to Palenque to see the apparently amazing Palenque ruins surrounded by jungle. Stay for 2 days and then the traveling starts to become a bit trickier as I enter Central America proper.

Getting from Palenque to Guatamala (specifically the north, near Flores) will be a bit tricky. It involves a bus trip to border, mini bus to river, an outboard motor boat trip across a big river (leaves at 8am), Guatamala customs and then a local bus to Flores. Guate here I come.

Thought that by getting up early I'd be first in line for the only bathroom. My plan was scuppered when at 8am some neighbours set off some supersonic fireworks (Shit, the Mexicans truly love fireworks) which woke everyone up instantly. I was actually laughing in bed wondering what would happen if I set off fireworks anywhere in London at 8am...). Went straight to the hospital and got there for 8.45. I thought this would be a good time but after waiting for an hour outside the vaccinations door a helpful doctor advised me it won't open til 10.30 (well thanks hospital staff of 100 people that walked passed me all morning without telling me!).

Patience is indeed a virtue in Latin America and will be especially needed the further south I go. Went for a stroll and to get some much needed breakfast in the meantime. I'm not the best with needles so needed all the strength I could get from a hearty breakfast. Found a cheap and cheerful cafe round the corner that had a set breakfast of Hot cakes (known as pancakes anywhere else), fresh orange and coffee for $2.50.

Re-invigorated I headed back to the hospital and got my jabs immediately. The doctor and three nurses spent more time admiring my tattoo's and touching them than focusing on my injections. Of course I played up to it a bit and told the nurses the tattoos were so painful I nearly died after the 18 hours they took (all lies of course). Needless to say this impressed them immensely. Mexico having a National Health Service similar to the one in Blighty I got it all for free (Hurrah and God bless the Mexican health service). Although I hear they have the same problems we do..under-staffed, under-paid and ridiculous waiting times for operations and critical treatment. A private doctor would normally charge me $35 per injection so I was well happy after that.

Time to do some sight-seeing so headed to the main plaza to check out the Catedral San Cristobal which was pretty impressive (I've been spoilt by seeing the Santa Domingo church in Oaxaca...will take allot to beat that beauty). Then had a look at the church of San Nicholas next to it (impressive because it dates back to 1613 and is the only indigenous peoples style church left in its original design). Then went to check out the local handicraft market where the indigenous people try to make a living (not easy for them these days to preserve their culture and try and survive in a material world. No surprise then that over the last few years there have been indigenous uprisings against the government not just because of finances but because the government keeps knicking their land).

Lunch was a cheap roasted half a chicken and rice for $3.50 and then back to my tiny wooden room for a siesta. I suspect it was supposed to be a sauna room in the owners mind originally but the idea must have been abandoned. After siesta I went to look for the famously strenuous steps leading to the Templo del Cerrito. The temple itself was closed and nothing major to look at from the outside but the view of the city is well good. What didn't help the tough walk up the stairs was every time I had a breather a small gang of local kids would pounce and beg for money. I had some chewing gum to hand so at every stop would hand these out.

After the tough 'Rocky' style stair triumph (yes, Eye of the Tiger was playing in my mind while I was climbing) I headed for the central plaza. As is always the case in Mexico these are very important social gathering places; loved up young couples kissing, old couples watching the loved up young couples kissing, business meetings, gangs of kids, strollers and singletons waiting to meet someone. Tonight there was a live 16 piece band playing some Mexican favourites. A big crowd was watching and dancing to some impressive sounds.

I was getting kind of drowsy by this point (vaccinations kicking in) so sorted out a cheap dinner in one of the back streets. It was some kind of working mans cafe and got myself a decent chilli burger for $1. Interestingly and surprising for anyone that knows me, I have never had Delhi Belly, Montezuma's Revenge or the Squirts in Mexico and I've eaten from every possible place. Maybe my stomachs stronger than I thought.

There are a hell of allot of Gringo's in San Cristobal. It seems to be a major attraction here and allot of spiritual stuff going on. Beads, dreads, platts, Aladdin style trousers and barefoot walking are everywhere to be seen. I'm not gonna go for the barefoot walking anyway..too worried the rest of my toe-nails will drop off.

Back to the sauna to sleep off these vaccinations (Cholera and Hep B). On the way back nearly snapped my ankle in two where a cobble stone was missing. Not easy walking on these at night. Lucky for me my few years of kick boxing has kind of sturdied my legs and ankles so no major damage done but I heard and felt the click.

Felt kinda rough this morning; sore injection arm, headache and tired (those vaccines have kicked in). Decided to hit the road again today and head for Palenque. Before leaving town sat down for a few hours of blog and photo uploads at the local Internet place. A short taxi ride to the long distance bus terminal ($2.50) and bought a ticket for the next bus to Palenque ($11). Had an hour to kill so walked around the side streets and found a nice cosy restaurant where I had a delicious beef stew (super spicy), pasta soup, rice and a glass of juice for $3. The bus was totally packed with Gringo's and local baby-carrying women. They showed the obligatory awful American films. The only decent one was about Anthony Hopkins breaking the motorised speed record (was in Spanish so didn't follow all of it).

The journey was pretty spectacular and windy (no yakking this time) and we passed through huge areas of tropical forest where clouds of mist hung at the peaks of forested hills. On the only break stop the heat outside was really noticeable (stupidly humid).

Arrived at Palenque just after 8.30 pm and at night so I hopped in a taxi and arrived at my budget accommodation choice (Posada Kushul-Ha...$10 a night). The room was nice and big, clean and had a fan. Walked out for a quick bite at a stall and then chilled in the room and did some research on the famous Palenque ruins so I'm ready for the trip.

At 7am all the stray dogs and cocks around my hotel window decided to put on a concert of noise so its at 7am that I got up and went for a walk around town. As I thought, nothing was open and no one was around so I went straight back again. At a more reasonable time I walked the whole of the central area and to be honest there wasn't much to look at. As my guidebook so elegantly puts it 'A friendly and colourful little town whose sole reason to exist is to accommodate the tourists heading for the famous archaeological site nearby'. The people are friendly and the place is full of shops but that's it really.

My trekking shoes being made of some kind of artificial brown suede were starting to look really scruffy (10 various shades of brown) so I asked an old and wizened shoe cleaner (plenty of those in Mexico. Clean shoes I presume are very important here) if anything could be done with mine. No sooner than I asked he sat me down and started painting on liquids, fanning them, brushing them, and finally putting polish and shammy leathering them. I was a bit nervous..I though he'd wreck my £100 shoes. Why did I worry. For $2 he had transformed my shoes from downright scruffy fake suede to smart and shiny brown leather (brilliant).

Sweet Jesus its hot here. Hottest place I've been to so far. Walking just a few steps and my t-shirt is soaked. Again am noticing that the Mexicans don't seem to sweat (is it just me?) Wanted to call my dad on his 65th birthday at 2.30pm so while I was waiting for this I did some research into what trips to make outside of town for tomorrow (of course the Palenque ruins, also the Misol-Ha falls and lastly the Agua Azul rapids..where a good fresh swim is in order)and the latest on crossing the border into Guatemala (which will be done on Monday and as predicted will take all day and will need allot of luck with timing to connect with boats etc..start time is 6am. Main agreement by everyone is not to travel at night unless necessary).

As I was walking around I happened to hear the word Drogba shouted from a TV and on closer inspection found a restaurant showing the Chelsea v Valencia champions league game. How could I resist such a temptation even if the food was a bit over priced ($4.50 for a pasta). That pasta was the slowest meal I've ever eaten and lasted me until early second half when to my horror the signal went and no amount of fiddling by the waiters could get it back (gutted..score was 1:1 at the time). Had a chat with a Mexican fella who was wearing a full Chivas (mexican premiere league team) kit (weird bloke...in a restaurant too) and we both agreed that English football was good to watch and Italian football is shit (you don't need to speak a language to agree on a universal truth).. After calling home and finding out everything's just fine back in Blighty went for the much needed escape-from-the-relentless-heat siesta.

The howling dogs were thankfully gone but replaced with bulldozers and road builders (not my lucky day for peaceful sleep). Later on went in search of the 'coletivo' starting point (mini van) to take me to the ruins which happened to start pretty close to my hotel on the street '20 Noviembre'. Evening time because of the heat everyone just sits outside on chairs, sofa's or hammocks and chills. It really is too humid to do anything else. Found the usual economy restaurant consisting of two tables with plastic chairs around them and a small TV on a fridge (that was it) and a hand written sign which gave the choice of either chicken..chicken or chicken. I went for the chicken in the end. Quite delicious half a chicken with salad, rice, salsa, tacos and a very common side dish of mushy brown beans (very tasty). With a coke it all came to $2.50.

I had planned on going out on the lash but this place hasn't got that many hot spots..plus I need to be up at 7am for a day of catching many mini buses to sites. In the end just chilled around in the town square and ate a much needed ice cream. Back to the room for an early night.

After a night of doing more research I realised it wasn't feasible to see all three sites I wanted to see in one day unless I go on a small organised tour. So at 7.30am a quick dash to a booth down the road and for $20 I get to see it all. So at 8am the van picked me up and headed to the Palenque ruins about 15 minutes out of town. I had 4 hours to explore this place. It really is truly impressive seeing so many huge ancient structures and all in pretty good condition (as good as can be expected).

Starting as a village in the 4th century AD it then went on to become a huge city at its peak in AD 600 with a population of roughly 8,000 -10,000. Some great names and characters around at this time; Jaguar 2nd, Chan Bahlum and Kan Xul. The main piece de resistance was The Palace; a huge central building with long steps leading up to it and in its centre is a high tower (built so mainly for Astronomers to observe and chart the movement of the planets. Scattered everywhere throughout the site are other great ruins to see.

The mosquitoes around the whole area are a bloody nightmare what with the whole area being surrounded by jungle (a small warm up for the Amazon trip I plan to do). Lucky for me I brought insect repellant with me. Next up was the Misol-Ha falls. I wasn't expecting too much in the way of size or water volume (still a bit disappointed about the falls in the US..but it just wasn't the right season). Boy was I wrong..it was bloody massive and the thundering and watery mist everywhere reminded me of Vic Falls (no way as big mind you). You could even walk behind it which inevitably led to a complete drenching (took allot to keep me from jumping in for a swim).

Last stop of the day were the Agua-Azul rapids; long stretches of rolling waterfalls. The amount of water thundering down the hill was amazing. At the end of the rapids is a small (apparently safe) area for swimming. I didn't have to be told twice and was in there as quick as an otter up a trouser leg. The water looked absolutely filthy (a dirty brown) but apparently its due to the huge amounts of water. While I was lounging around and sunning had a chat with an Israeli couple who were on holiday in Mexico for a month but had traveled extensively in South America years ago. Got a few handy tips and addresses for my South America leg. They were both disappointed in Mexico compared to the rest of Latin America. That I won't be able to judge for myself until I get there.

In the van on the way back had a long chat with Jess (an English girl which is quite a rarity around here...hurrah who's traveling with her fella Robin for 10 months round the world). Today (how unlucky is this for me) is election day in Mexico so true to a democratic society the sale of alcohol is outlawed (can you imagine Gordon Brown banning the sale of alcohol during elections...sweet Jesus there would be riots galore). When I went for dinner down the road it felt a bit tenser (or was I imagining it?). As its my last night in Mexico it seemed only right that dinner would be a Whopper with fries and a chocolate shake at the local Burger king (well...why not).

Before I head to Guate (what everyone calls Guatemala for some strange and lazy reason) tomorrow I have to find a hotel that swaps English books. I have finished the amazing 'A short history of nearly everything'. english books aren't that common here (well, good ones anyway) so I was kind of lucky to find a local hotel that within its pile of 10 books had a decent one. It may be me but every time I've swapped books in the past (in Africa) there has always been a copy of Penguins 'The Art of Oregami' within a weird random mix of books. The same here..I found the exact same book.

Tomorrow's going to be hectic (with a capital Hect) so early night (well...theres no beer to be found anyway) and I will be up at 5am.