North America - USA

'Feeling hot hot hot...'

Yep, its still boiling here. 2 million degrees centigrade apparently. Early rise today to get as much in before the heat gets ridiculous. Had a gut bursting breakfast of pancakes, bacon and syrup then marched all the way from China Town to Battery Park. The plan was to get the tour ferry to the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island (where all the immigrants coming over were processed). I saw the queues and thought better of it. Instead I got the free Statton Island ferry which goes close enough to the Statue of Liberty to get the feel of it.

Then walked on to Ground Zero and had a look around the big gaping hole that used to be the Twin Towers. Very poignant. Obviously there was allot of construction going on so didn't stay too long. Had a huge hot dog lunch in a park in Wall Street where I rubbed shoulders with the kind of folk that shout 'Buy...buy....Sell, sell' every 2 minutes. Next stop was a subway ride to Brooklyn Heights so I could get a good view of Manhattan...and what a view it was. By this time I was already knackered and my brand new state-of-the-art $150 sandals had decided to start a war with my heels. The heels lost and much blistering and bleeding followed. After numerous plasters were attached I carried on cursing the sandals. I couldn't really come to New York without seeing a bit of Central Park so off I went to the subway again.

I really liked Central Park...looks very natural and most importantly it still retains a high number of freaky dudes. There was a guy who had developed a new style Tai Chi which involved wiggling his arse around (dancehall stylee) in between each proper move. There was another guy who was walking up to everyone (including me), did a crap rap and then asked them what they thought of his new rap. "Brilliant" I told him. Well, I wasn't gonna say how shit it was. 5th Avenue beckoned late afternoon. Shopping definitely wasn't on my list but just wanted to soak up the consumer madness. I did pass by the Playboy Empire building and was very tempted to pop my head in to see his lord luckiness old Hugh himself.

Day 3 - New York to Washington DC Woke up to another scorcher in NY. Mission this morning was to find an internet cafe. Not an easy task apparently...took 2 hours to find one near Houston. Next mission was to pick up the hire car. A bargain at $1000 + $199 return fee as the car will have to get back from San Francisco to New York. The car I ordered was a super economy car. As long as it gets me to San Fran who cares...what I actually got was a Pontiac G6 GT with all the trimmings(Result!!). Driving around New York was a daunting task but after 1 million honking horns and arse hole comments from cabbies I started enjoying it. It was time to leave New York. Not a bad thing. Don't get me wrong I really like NY but I don't like staying too long in one City (too easy, too expensive and too addictive and tempting to stay). So at early afternoon I headed past New Jersey (popping into Tony Soprano's gaff for some Taglioni and Meatballs) then onto Interstate 95 south. 230 miles, 10 serious traffic jams and one serious swerve to avoid a broom lying on the road later I arrive in Washington DC. Found a motel for $45 a night. Result as I can park the car, get free internet and have a night swim in the pool.

Woke up to another scorcher in NY. Mission this morning was to find an internet cafe. Not an easy task apparently...took 2 hours to find one near Houston. Next mission was to pick up the hire car. A bargain at $1000 + $199 return fee as the car will have to get back from San Francisco to New York. The car I ordered was a super economy car. As long as it gets me to San Fran who cares...what I actually got was a Pontiac G6 GT with all the trimmings(Result!!).

Driving around New York was a daunting task but after 1 million honking horns and arse hole comments from cabbies I started enjoying it. It was time to leave New York. Not a bad thing. Don't get me wrong I really like NY but I don't like staying too long in one City (too easy, too expensive and too addictive and tempting to stay). So at early afternoon I headed past New Jersey (popping into Tony Soprano's gaff for some Taglioni and Meatballs) then onto Interstate 95 south. 230 miles, 10 serious traffic jams and one serious swerve to avoid a broom lying on the road later I arrive in Washington DC. Found a motel for $45 a night. Result as I can park the car, get free internet and have a night swim in the pool.

"Onnnnnnnnn the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia..."

Ok, let me get the weather out of the way. Its even hotter than NY here in Washington DC (100 F). Early start today to see some sites in DC. First stop was a visit to Dubya's gaff. Walking around the centre of DC is weird because it is so quiet...hardly anyone around. It seems at weekends all the people working there go out of town leaving the centre desolate (good for my sight-seeing anyway).

The White House was pretty impressive but smaller than I expected. Had a brief chat and took a photo of a guy who has been protesting against War for the last few decades. Apparently him and his girlfriend do 6 hour shifts of sit-down protesting. They have a nest for sleeping and eating set up directly opposite the White House. Fair play fellah. Next was a one hour (sweat inducing and 2 stone weight losing) walk to the Abe Lincoln memorial. Very impressive indeed. Walked up the steps and sat down there with an ice cream so I could re-enact Clint in the film 'In the line of fire'.

I could have spent all day in DC visiting museums and galleries but the Blue Ridge Mountains beckoned. I was sweating like a pig and thought I would seriously self-combust when I got into the car ready for the long drive. Off I drove and with the air-con on full couldn't understand why I was still hot...and getting hotter by the minute. Stopped on the lay-by and realised the air con was on warm blower and to make it even worse I'd accidentally switched on my driver seat heater (damn buttons!).

Its common knowledge but petrol really is cheap here. I've worked out I can make 340 miles for $38. Nice. Driving really is smooth here..good roads, clear signs, patient drivers and time seems to fly by. So the 3 hour drive to 'Shenandoah National Park (part of the Blue Ridge Mountain range) was smooth with a capital Smoo. $15 entrance fee into a park with some stunning scenery. Did a 2 hour hike down to a waterfall and splashed around a bit. Freeeezing cold water perked up my blistering ankles. My cursed sandals have been demoted to backpack ballast. Found a lodge within the park that had tented chalets for $26 a night. Sadly its high season here and everything was full so had to drive to small town called Harringburg where I found the usual cheap and cheerful Motel for $30 a night. God bless the cheap Motels.

Tomorrow I'm going to finish the drive through Blue Ridge using the Blue Ridge Parkway and then onto the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. On a side note communications been a doddle here and people are ultra friendly everywhere (well..maybe not in NY) but one main problem keeps cropping up. Soda water is my favoured daytime drink of choice in hot weather. The words 'Soda water' draws a blank with everyone working in shops? I have tried 'Sparkling water', 'Fizzy water', 'Carbonated water' and I've even resorted to making bubbling noises. Its given me a complex now so I'm on the plain water now until I can get to the bottom of this.

"Don't go chasing Waterfalls..."

Woke up with another 25 bed bug bite marks. My research into the merits of silk sleeping sheets was obviously a load of bollocks really. I suspect I am now the carrier of 2 rival bed bug gangs who use me as food to sustain their gang fights. Needed to stock up on essentials for a day of hiking in the Smokies so went for a trip to Wal-Mart...Jesus the place is huge. Had a look at their firearms section and nearly bought a rifle for the bargain price of $650. Can't see this catching on at Tesco's back home.

The drive into the Smokies was very scenic. Made a stop at the Cherokee Indian Reservation and had a quick look at all the native American gear..Wigwams, leather gear and feathers. Sadly no space in my pack for all of it. Parked the car in the middle of the Mountains and did some serious hiking. Really stunning forests with butterflies everywhere, rivers and waterfalls. Obviously had a splash around the falls to cool down. Apparently there are bears around so whenever I heard a rustle in the bushes I was on serious alert mode. I once read somewhere that punching an attacking bear in the nose sorts them out. Bullshit...that would probably just tickle them.

After a good day's hiking drove to Gatlinburg and found a place to rest for the night..bit more pricey than the usual but I was knackered. Quick dinner in town (noticing some mighty hefty people around...they sure like their double burger meals). Quite big drive tomorrow and should reach Nashville (home of country music) by late lunch. Can't wait. I hope the bed bugs have decided to settle down and retire in the forests.

"I'm on the road again..."

Late rise today as I had a bed bug free kip. Long drive from Gatlinburg to Nashville (4 hours and 280 miles). Have brought a 8 cd Spanish learning set. Need to get a good grounding for when I reach Central and South America. The promise by Michelle Thomas (the course lecturer) is that I'll have a good grounding within 12 hours. Ou'est la Piscine sil vous plait?

During a petrol stop I had the misfortune to park next to a pickup truck with big lights, huge antlers on the front and full of rednecks drinking beer. Looked like all they were doing was sitting there shouting racist abuse at any Mexicans or afro-Americans walking out of the shop. "Goddamn Mexicano...gowaaan back home..etc." Very weird.

Nashville is el Scorchio!! (104 F). I seemed to have arrive during a major heat wave. Couldn't find any extra cheap lodgings so opted for a chain motel (Comfort in at $45 (£22) a night. Arrived late afternoon so during the stifling heat made use of the Motel pool. Relaxed in the evening at a country bar supping a few beers ($3 each) and watching some live country bands. Fantastic foot stomping stuff.

Nashville just seeps music. Everywhere you go in the music district there were guitar players outside, inside and just about everywhere. I suppose that's why they call it music city. The plan tomorrow is to explore the city and in the evening do some cowboy slide dancing steps and see a live Blue Grass band.

"Walk the line..."

At 8.30 in the morning the temperature was 96F in Nashville. Holy shit this heats too much for sightseeing. Still, had a look round the place. Saw the famous Studio 8 where loads of stars recorded, then Music row (where all the record companies and studios are). Also spent most of the afternoon in the Country Music Hall of Fame. Brilliant place to learn about the roots of country and Rock n Roll. ($14).

Food is well cheap here (as well as all over the US). Had a pasta lunch for $6.99. At night the lively 'the District' beckoned. Nearly every bar (roughly 50) had a live band of some kind of music. Stopped in BB Kings bar for a few Buds and heard some live country rock. Then onto my favourite 'Lilly's Bluegrass and Hillbilly Country bar'. Great live band. I did a lot of whoopin and a hollerin, some Rebel slidin and abit of Country Stompin. Top atmosphere. A swift nightcap at Tootsies and off home. Long drive to Memphis tomorrow morning. Elvis beckons. Thank you very much.

"Well since my baby left..I found a place to dwell..."

After a 3.5 hour and 210 mile drive (I'm onto cd 3 of spanish now. Donde esta Memphis por favor) I arrived in Memphis. It is seriously el scochio (102 F). There are 4 things I really wanted to experience here and managed to do 3 of them. Firstly was a visit to the Stax Museum of Soul Music ($12) where some of my favourite soul singers started out: Otis Redding, Carla Thomas, Booker T, Sam and Dave and Isaac Hayes. Great museum where you can hear and see the roots of Soul. They even had Isaac Hayes' pimp mobile with fluffy carpet all over. Next on my list was to see where the King himself lived. Graceland ($25) was surprisingly good. I thought it would be well tacky but it was all in good taste..then finally seeing Elvis's grave. Very somber moment. Number 3 was to see my all time favourite soul singer Al Green (now the Reverend Al Green) lead a 2.5 hour service at the Full Gospel Tabernacle in Rev Al Green Road. I was so looking forward to hearing him sing with his gospel choir but sadly (should have worked this out better) it only happens on Sundays. I'm only here for a day/ night so due to time limitations can't make it. Number 4 was to hear some low down dirty blues.

So off to Beale street in the early evening for some Southern fried chicken and fried green tomatoes ($7.50). Then bar after bar...after bar of top live blues bands. Saw a great impromptu band in a small park playing some funk but my favourite was a blues band from Memphis called '2 weeks notice' who played loads of classic blues and some Lynard Skynard thrown in (my request of Free bird was gratefully played). They were so good I bought their cd.

I have to say Memphis is without a doubt my favourite place in the US so far. Its got history, grit, friendliness and real soul. Nashville was a bit tacky in comparison. If I had the choice Memphis would be Music city. Viva Las Memphis. For the next 2 days I have to try and cover the 1089 miles from Memphis to Denver (Colorado). This will be the toughest drive of the whole trip and by the end of it I should be fluent in Spanish. We'll see. Oh yeah, almost forgot. Had a few drinks in the Blue's bar where my Dad 8 years previously sat and had a few himself.

"Driving along in my automobile..."

Woke up feeling rougher than a Meerkat's arse (too much beer and blues last night). I've got 1090 miles of solid driving ahead of me for the next 2 days (with night stops of course). The first bit of driving I passed straight through Bill Clinton's home state of Arkansas. Very flat landscape with farm land everywhere. Next was Oklahoma, again flat farm land everywhere. Saw allot of sneaky cop cars hiding from speeding cars; either on bridges, between bushes and behind advertising signs...then nabbing the drivers.

As I left Memphis quite late in the day and had covered 480 miles I had to find a place to stay for the night. By 10pm I'd found a totally cheap (literally) Motel ($24) on the outskirts of Stillwater. It was pretty rough and to strengthen my suspicion of roughness, just as I got to my room 2 flashing cop cars pulled in and hammered on the door a few from mine. The fellah they were after was nicked and his room and pickup searched.

On a side note driving in the US has been so easy and relaxed. Pretty much everywhere other drivers are considerate and patient (NY being the exception). Speed limit is between 65 and 75 and there's a 10 mph leeway. Oh, and no bloody roundabouts so far (apart from in DC). Finding petrol, food or a motel is a doddle too. Every 30 or so miles there's always a cluster of shops (McD's, KFC, Subway and TacoBells)and motels (Motel 6, Super 8 or Comfort Inn). Its a bit sad that in the towns there are hardly any convenience stores or diners as Fast food chains and Wal-Mart has taken over everything. Tomorrow another 600 miles to cover. Bed bugs be gone.

"2-4-6-8..never too late"

Bed bugs have been at it again..feasting on my feet. I'm getting used to it now so not a problem. Bought a king-sized coffee (no really..it was huge) to keep me wide eyed and bushy tailed for the next 600 miles of wide open road. As always, very smooth going on the roads. Bit pissed off I haven't found the cruise control for the car yet. The temperature outside was a steady 108F. God bless Con air. Very uneventful drive but am just short of the 1090 mile goal. Altogether have clocked 2400 miles...just another 2000 to go until San Francisco.

Have decided to stop listening to my spanish cd's during long drives. Its almost as good as taking sleeping tablets (nearly nodded off a few times). Lessons will continue on shorter drives and when there are plentiful Red Bull supplies. Can't wait for tomorrow. A short drive past Denver then 2 days of hiking in the Rockies where eye-popping scenery, waterfalls and the Colorado river awaits.

"those simple bear necessities ..forget about your worries and your strife"

Very early rise to finish the drive to the Rockies. Scenic drive and Denver's location is awesome..just at the base of the Rocky Mountains. Arrived at Estes Park (the main base for hiking into the national park) and drove around for an hour looking for cheap accommodation. Very scarce as this is a holiday resort. Finally found a budget motel and a room for $35. Quite rough and poky but at that price around here who cares.

Like a true Aquarian, water, specifically the rivers and waterfalls were my mission so I drove into the Rockies ($15 entrance). Parked up and went for a beautiful 7 hour hike (bloody hard work...uphill all the way) through the forests, crossing rivers and seeing some great waterfalls (Copeland falls and Calypso cascades). As is always my habit when I'm near water I had to jump in. Big mistake..the water was Freeeeeezing with a capital Freee. After 1 minute of just my feet in there I lost all feeling in my toes so thought better of jumping in.

Saw some crazy chipmunks darting all over the place, some decent looking squirrels (not the mangy kind seen in Hyde Park) and some colourful birds (blue with a Mohican hairdo, and a big red breasted one with a pointy hairdo). Halfway through the hike I saw a few signs to keep a lookout for Bears...and Mountain Lions? (Jesus!). So Swiss army knive and a long walking stick in hand I continued. The most dangerous animal I saw all day was a scruffy looking Chipmunk with a bit of attitude. Taking it easy tonight after the long hike. Got myself a Chinese take away ($10) and watching TV in my Motel room (haven't seen TV for a week now..not a bad thing really). Tomorrow it's either rafting on the Colorado river or a long trek to a secluded lake...? On a side note the people of Colorado are well friendly but I do smile when I hear them talk as it sounds suspiciously like the South Park accent (Drugs are bad...hokay!). Need to research this further...

"There's a Moose in my Hoose"

(sigh) What a beautiful place the Rockies are. Went for a slow and long drive early morning stopping at some spectacular points. Felt a touch of altitude sickness (headaches, nausea..) but I'd better get used to high altitudes for Central and South America (although there I'm sure I'll be able to use a certain artificial stimulant to keep me going). Reached the highest drivable point in the US (3,700 metres) and what a view. Photos don't really do it justice though.

Made the mistake of not checking my petrol consumption (mountain roads really hammers the petrol) so halfway across the mountain i was on empty. Luckily for me I could almost coast all the way down to a small town on the other said called Grand Lake and fill up. Not so lucky for me was that the petrol was $1 pricier per gallon here ($3.79). Lesson learned.

Saw a bit more wildlife today: Moose, a Hawk, Beaver (nice Beaver...) and millions of chipmunks. Today was a day of lots of smaller treks rather than a big one. Followed the Colorado river for a few hours (right at the source of it). I even made a feeble attempt at a swim in it but after losing feeling in my feet thought better of it. Then walked through some beautiful forest and came across yet more great waterfalls. Nothing like the rumbling sounds of a waterfall for an Aquarian to meditate and gather his thoughts. Easy, chilled night. as I have lost all feeling in my legs. Not even sure if I have them any more.

I'll be sad to leave here as it really is a beautiful place but there is a long drive (roughly 400 miles) to Arches national park in Utah to do tomorrow. This may be my last entry for at least 4 days as I'll be hitting national parks only from now on...not sure what the internet situation will be until I hit Las Vegas. Sadly no photos until Las Vegas. The computer I'm using here is about 50 years old and just about lets you type.

"Goldfinger..."

Late rise because my legs were so sore they just wouldn't get up. Long scenic drive out of the Rockies. The route I took (Interstate 70 West) is the most scenic but difficult drive so far. Very winding and steep road but worth every minute. Stopped off at a place called Silver Throne for a feast of a lunch for the princely sum of $5.50 (corned beef hash, hash browns, 2 eggs and 4 pancakes..Jesus my guts gonna regret that one). Nice resort town this and in the winter is probably packed.

Further up the road is the famous Aspen, ski resort for the rich and famous. I'm noticing a dramatic change in the landscape from mountainous forests and green valleys to desolate stretches with red rocks and loose shrubbery. Starting to look like a place for Cowboys (no, not like my mate Arthur the plasterer ...proper Cowboys). Saw a few proper Cowboys at a petrol station in full gear. Full boots, pearl encrusted shirt and huuuuuge brimmed hat...looked kind of cool.

Finally crossed the state border from Colorado to Utah (the original home of the Ute tribe of Native Americans). I decided to leave the Interstate for the rest of the drive (can get a bit boring after 5 hours driving) and was lucky enough to pick a beautiful drive that followed the Colorado (extra special as I had just seen it at the source only yesterday) and also cut through red rock canyons (nice).

Arrived in the tourist magnet town of Moab quite late and spent the next hour looking for cheap lodgings. No easy task as it was peak season and it seemed I had arrived just when 2 million Italian tourists had decided to descend here (lots of ciao bellas' and prontos'). Finally found a great little motel called the Inca Motel. Had a smoke and a chat with the owner and it seems allot of the family run Motels are being bought out by big chain Motels (Super 8, Motel 6, Holiday Inn) and then closed down. So from now on I'm boycotting the greedy bastard chains and sticking to small Motels (well, not unless I'm desperate anyway). Dinner was enjoyed at the kind of place I had been looking for (unsuccessfully so far)..a good American diner with sideways seating and good, cheap food. Got a steak, salad, potatoes, bun and coke for $5.99 (God bless the diner). Very hard to find them anymore because there are McD's, KFC's, Burger kings, Subways and Taco Bells everywhere (no really, everywhere).

Had a late night swim in the pool and was splashing around when I realised the pool was directly outside the main windows of a packed out restaurant full of staring tourists having dinner. A bit of muscle flexing, 5 press ups and I quickly scampered out of there. Tomorrow there's a lot to see. A slow drive through Arches National Park then onto Monument Valley and finally reach the Grand Canyon to find lodgings.

"I was born...under a wandering star"

Early rise as there's allot of driving and allot to see today. First stop was Arches National park with its amazing natural rock formations that all look like arches. Sadly the place was absolutely packed out with traffic jams like a Monday morning on the North Circular. My patience ran out so that part was cut short. The thing is everywhere you drive round here are amazing rock formations so I wasn't that gutted about missing out on Arches. Next stop was the Mexican hat formation. Really amazing how this shape has been naturally formed into what looks like a huge hat balanced on a body.

Then another 130 miles to Monument Valley and crossing from Utah into Arizona. Wow, the rocks here and the whole landscape is just brilliant. Reminded me so much of the Western films where the Cowboys would ride off into the desert. Although this area is a huge tourist trap (i think the Italians followed me from Moab) its easy to escape the crowds. This area is Navajo country and you can see its more tribal than anywhere else. Stopped off to have a look at some Navajo curios and had chat with a local guy. He said this is Pow Wow season and every 2 weeks until October all the Navajo people travel around to drink, smoke and generally have a good time (at this point I was dying to get invited to one especially as it was due this very weekend. Never happened..gutted). Oh, and he also told me his 21 year old daughter regularly comes second in the Navajo dance finals (double gutted).

As it was late in the day I had to make tracks and head for the spectacular (I hope) Grand Canyon. As is becoming a regular occurrence I couldn't find anywhere to stay (I bet its those pesky Italian tourists again) so I had to drive 60 miles from the Canyon and settled for a pricey room at a Navajo run Motel in Gray Mountain ($40!!!!!..well, I was desperate).

Tomorrow I will behold the mighty Grand Canyon. I'm still not sure how inspiring it's going to be so I'm going to try not to expect too much and I'm sure its going to be packed with camera toting tourists scrambling for the ultimate photo. As I didn't do any Colorado rafting at the Rockies I'm hoping to do some here, at least for half a day. We'll see how busy it is.

Have clocked a total of 3,450 miles now and its starting to get a bit tiring but never enough to stop...just too many great things to see. I've managed to save 1 whole day extra because of good roads so will spend a solid 3 days at Yosemete National Park chilling an relaxing soon.

"Come on baby light my fire..."

After 60 miles of driving I found myself at the Grand Canyon ($25 entrance fee). Before I got there I tried not to raise my expectations too high to prevent disappointment. Not necessary at all as my first glimpse of the Canyons was spectacular. A vast canyon with rolling hills of all kinds of shapes, colours and sizes. Really difficult to describe but just amazing. I wasn't even put off by the hoards of tourists (mostly Italians...are they following me or something).

I decided to escape the trillions of tourists by going on a hike around the rim of the Canyon (called the Rim Trail). Saw some amazing views and around every corner the Canyon would look different. There were moments of near heart-attacks as the trail went mere feet from the edge. I have a serious vertigo problem so for me this was rough.

During one of my breaks I sat down and rolled a ciggy staring at the view when I heard rustling in the bushes and a squirrel jumped out, ran up my leg then onto my shoulder and just sat there staring at me. Scared the life out of me for a second ...thought it was a rat. Decided to stay at the Canyon until evening so I could catch the sunset. Very beautiful and only slightly less so because of the cloudy sky. After the sunset (7.15pm) I had a long drive (160 miles) to a town called Page which will be the springboard for the journey to Zion National Park in the morning.

Arrived at what I thought was a sleepy town at 11pm and after 2 hours of searching found all Hotels full. Turns out this is a holiday resort and this is peak season. Got myself a late night snack and was told by the shop assistant there is a Motel a few miles out of town. Indeed there was and got a fantastic room for $29. Sleep, glorious sleep... Nope..at 2am I was awakened by banging on the door and sirens outside. It was the Fire Brigade and there was a fire in the motel. They were hosing a room down and ripping the plastic ceilings down. Luckily nobody was hurt so it was an exciting distraction for everyone in the Motel (would have liked some kip though).

"Like a lion..in Zion.."

Absolute nightmare sleep last night because of the fire so plan B for today was a swim and splash about in Lake Powell (Glen Canyon) to wake me up. As is my habit I frolicked in the sun too long for my own good and got well burnt (medium rare). Early afternoon was a 150 mile drive to Zion National Park. I'd heard some good things about it so was pretty excited. The place was stunning. Beautiful rocky formations and hills with greenery.

Actually for me Zion ranks top of my eye popping beauty chart. Like it allot. Went for some short hikes (very testing for my fear of heights) and liked it so much I decided to stay an extra day. Found a room within the park (not easy in this season) so I could explore as much as possible the next morning.

At night had a soak in the Jacuzzi and watched the stars in that big ole US sky. Tomorrow its more of Zion and then a 150 mile drive into the state of Nevada..and particularly Las Vegas. Viva!

"Viva Las Vegas..."

Woke up feeling buzzing due to too much jacuzzi action. Spent a whole morning at Zion doing some beautiful walks and hikes. Went to one great spot called Emerald Pools with a waterfall that you can walk under (bit like the one in Last of the Mohicans). Would have looked way more spectacular in the spring as there's more water around.

Then it was off for a 140 mile to the bright lights and big city of Las Vegas. To be honest I thought it was going to be really tacky here and I wouldn't like it too much. Boy was I wrong. The place is fantastic ...a real buzz around here. If only I knew I would have planned more time around here.

Although I am a skint backpacker on a tight budget it was decided that it was time to splash out. A room was booked at the Treasure Island hotel and casino (where the show that inspired Pirates of the Caribbean is from). Lovely room and great casino. Actually, my travel partner and good all round navigator Naomi paid for it.

Played a bit of blackjack in the casino and lost money incredibly fast ($20 gone like a flash). So off for a few drinks to work out a system of winning. Came back and played the slots. Bang, another $20 gone. In the end at about 4am I'd lost enough and had enough so off for a walkabout. Went for a walk round the other casino's like Caesars Palace (its huuuuge), and the Venetian (they have copied a whole part of Venice inside it, Gondolas and canals included). Then went to see the water display outside the Bellagio (as featured at the end of Oceans 11). Really was spectacular.

Walking down the Strip there are soooo many beautiful girls around its unbelievable. Vegas is the bollocks. I would have liked to stay longer in LV because I like it allot but its a real money drain on a backpacker with a tight budget. I'll definitely come back on another trip or holiday. Tomorrow I head for the hottest and lowest geographical point in the US...Death Valley. It can reach 50c there so hope I'm not too rough after all the beer consumed tonight.

"Bright lights big city gonna sell my soul.."

Woke up like a bear with a sore head but that wasn't gonna stop me enjoying the last bit of Las Vegas. Had another crack at the slot machines (5c a go..yes I know its a bit exuberant) and lost another $20. Gambling's a mugs game anyway. Then a mission to find an internet cafe to update this blog of mine. Again no mean feat in such a well known city. It really is bloody hard to find a reasonable internet cafe in the US. Maybe its because everyone is wireless..but still a pain. Cheapest I could find was $5 for 20 min's.

Just after lunch followed a 165 mile drive to Death Valley. Passed the infamous Nellis Air Force Range Complex where the Yanks did their Atomic Bomb testing and also in its northern area is the reputed Area 51. Sadly didn't see any bombs or Aliens so carried on driving.

Arrived in Death Valley in the evening and the temperature was still 112F. Found a nice spot to watch the sunset over Death Valley. Very nice but it was a bit like sitting in an oven with the fan on full blast ..damned hot wind. Tried to find a room within the park but nothing doing so drove 50 miles away and found a decent room for $30.

Plan is to look around Death Valley all day then drive the 280 miles to Yosemite for 2 solid days of hiking and chilling. God help me if the temperature reaches 50c tomorrow (as forecast).

"Like dust in the wind.."

Jesus Death Valley is hot and desolate. It gets its name from the settlers trying to pass through to reach civilisation on the west coast but many died here in the oppressive heat and there being no water. I went to loads of areas (mostly in the car..too hot to walk around) like the valley which is just a vast empty and hot plain, then the salt flats which is again a vast area with the odd pool of water (salty), then onto endless deserts.

Made the mistake of walking a bit too long in the desert with my sandals which flicked well hot sand on the backs of my legs (well painful). The temperature reached a personal record of mine..120F (50c). So hot I'm sure it boils the brain in its shell (well it did mine anyway).

Next was a long 280 mile drive to the long awaited Yosemite National Park. It was a tough drive through steep winding roads but with gorgeous mountain scenery. Passed through some top named towns like Little Pine, Big Pine and Lone Pine. As is becoming habit I still can't find a refreshing bottle of soda water anywhere during the driving breaks. Using some foresight I had already phoned ahead and managed to book a camping tent for 3 nights within the park (result).

Arrived at the campsite at night and was well pleased with the tent which had electricity, beds, outside table and a BBQ area..all for $78 for two. Only worry was rampant Bears in the area. There are Bear warnings everywhere. It was too late for a BBQ so bought some packaged food and did some star gazing. Campsite was well busy with Dudes and Dudettes sitting around campfires strumming guitars and singing. I very nearly broke into song but bit my tongue. Didn't want to lure the Bears with my vocals.

Tomorrow a full day of hiking is is on the cards. Can't wait...

"Ain't no mountain high enough..aint no valley no enough.."

Ok ..first off, I am very curious about bears because I've never seen one in the wild before. What I didn't really want is to hear a family of them scratching on the canvas tent cover all night. I got zero sleep last night because of the cheeky bears. Camp rules at the Yosemite Housekeeping camp state that all food and toiletries in the tent and car have to be locked up outside so the bears don't break in and have you for pudding. So all night I was hearing some weird noises outside and all that was between me and a hungry Mogli and family was a canvas sheet.

At about 4am I woke up hearing allot of crunching noises and a bloke screaming a few tents away. He must have caught a bear breaking into his car (150 cars get wrecked by bears every year at Yosemite).

Because of the night of the bears I woke up pretty late but was raring to go for a day of hiking. Picked a trail called the '4 mile trail' (5 miles really so not sure why its called 4). In the hiking guide it is rated as a 'very strenuous (extremely strenuous being the top). It was well hard..uphill all the way up a mountain to a beautiful spot called Glacier Point. The views were breathtaking: seeing sweeping valleys of pine trees, huge waterfalls and huge mountain peaks. As usual in high places I had about 50 near heart attacks walking around cliff edges where the paths were only about 4 feet wide in places.

Saw loads of wildlife on the trail: birds (feathered kind), squirrels, chipmunks, lizards and butterflies. No bears here (I think they're too smart for this trail). Finally reached the top after 5 hours of solid uphill walking..and what a view (really spectacular). Photos don't do it justice at all. After a 1 hour break the plan to catch a bus down was scuppered as it didn't go anywhere near the parked car.

So back down the mountain with weary legs, back and mind. 2 hours later and after allot of stumbling me and my travel partner Naomi made it down. Well chuffed. Back to tent base around 9pm and a well deserved shower and chill.

Tomorrow I'm going to try and hire a raft to float down the river all day. Bears be gone and let me sleep.

"Burn baby burn.."

A very chilled day at the park today. Tried to hire a raft but because the water levels are too low (a regular occurrence at US parks) wasn't allowed to. So drove around to look at all the wonderful sights in the park. Had a chat with a Park Ranger about 'Soccer' (yes, I did correct him for his terminology for football. The word Soccer is one of my pet hates.). He even had the cheek to compare Chelsea to LA Galaxy..too much money for their own good. Hmm mm.

At evening and as this was the last night camping it was time to build my own camp fire, BBQ some meat and marsh mellows and tune the vocals. The singing didn't bring any Rollettes swarming around the fire so I quickly stopped that. Nice to do some star gazing here. The stars look so clear.

Woke up with a start at 3am by a growling noise. I was well sweaty and nervous because it sounded like a bear was really close. After shaking off the sleep I realised it was some bloke in the tent next door snoring like a loon. Slept soundly after that based on the fact that with that kind of racket what bear would dare to sneak around here (nice).

"Are you going to San Francisco.."

Very sad to leave Yosemite. Its up there with my favourite US places but there's a long 180 mile drive to San Francisco to do. On the way out of the park I stopped at a trail spot and walked for a couple of hours around giant Sekoya trees. Massive trees, some as old as 5000 years. San Francisco and the last leg of the road trip beckoned and after 4 hours of driving finally got to the suburbs at 10pm.

The drivers on the California highways are totally barking. Serious loony drivers here but luckily I have 2.5 years of North Circular training under my belt so I was cool with it. Late arrivals in big cities are kind of tough without knowing where to stay but luckily I found a Motel in Oakland (a satellite city of San Francisco) which was well pricey at $50 for the night (A reliable source tells me that Oakland was the birthplace of the Hell's Angels...nice).

Early night and then time to explore the city early tomorrow.

"Sittin on the dock of the Bay..."

Lost on crazy San Francisco roads and junctions for 2.5 hours. Eventually reached San Fran proper then spent next 2 hours trying to find cheap accommodation. As usual not an easy task but found one for $48. Had a delicious Thai lunch on Lombard street for $6.99 (well cheap). Had totally forgotten about it but in Monument Valley the rear car bumper got scratched so had a look around for a body repair shop.

All of them were honest enough to say that I should leave it for the car hire firm to deal with + they probably wouldn't notice it anyway (really don't need getting hit with a few hundred pounds repair bill). After getting all the chores done had a long walk around the Fisherman's Wharf and Bay area. Very touristy but nice to look around anyway.

Tried desperately to get a boat to Alcatraz to see the famous prison where Al Capone was held. Sadly the only operator that actually lands there was sold out for 4 more days. Will have to give it a miss for now. Found a weird spot near Pier 39 where there are hundreds of sea lions frolicking around on small floating piers. Very funny watching the pups push each other in the water. Fish dinner and a few beer.

I like San Francisco allot. Really great city from what I've seen so far. The variety of cultures and food is amazing and the people are well friendly. Tomorrow the beloved car goes back to the car rental company (Noooooooooooooo!). Hope they don't see the scratches.

"California Dreamin..a touch of winters day.."

Sweet Jesus San Fran's cold at night. The car went back today with a grand total mileage of 4,872 (not bad at all). Really going to miss that car; really comfortable, reliable and everything is electronic (never did work out where cruise control is). Had a look around Japan Town area and had a delicious curry for $7.99. Then walked around the Civic Centre area full of old grand buildings. The library here is massive.

Next was Haight-Ashbury, famous for being the hippie centre in the 60's and 70's. Quite a lively area. Lots of homeless hippie dudes with honest begging signs like "$1 will get me drugs..be generous". Another one was an old hippie spinning a cardboard circle (a feeble attempt at a hypnosis wheel) and below it says "You will give me $1 for drugs" (Jedi mind trick might have worked better). Loads of stoners and mashed people around and all good fun.

Went for a quick wander around Castro (Gay area) and yes it was very gay and happy. Again tried in vain to get a trip to Alcatraz in the bay area. No luck again. Early start tomorrow (4am) as I need to drop Naomi at the airport and then from there a trek to the greyhound terminal. From there its 8 hours to LA (some much needed sun awaits).

"Roadtrippin with my 2 favourite allies..we got coke, we got snacks and supplies"

So here officially ends this exciting and eventful part of the trip (officially known as the Golden Month) as I bid farewell to Naomi at San Fran airport. We had a fantastic road trip and saw some amazing things and met some weird and wonderful people. To be honest if Naomi wasn't with me for this part of the trip I'd still be driving around New York looking for a way through New Jersey. She navigated like the devil, planned allot of stuff and was a top travel companion.

Blagged a lift from the airport to the Greyhound terminal from a black fellah who is obsessed with cruise holidays. He told me he has to have depression treatment after every cruise (no joke). The 8 hour bus journey started at 9am. It nearly started very badly for a Kiwi couple who didn't queue properly and the bus driver (who I have dubbed 'Mini Mitler') wouldn't let them on the bus. Common sense prevailed.

Mini Mitler also gave me the third degree, convinced I was carrying contraband alcohol onto the bus (Mad fellah). Mind you the greyhound waiting area was full of wino's. Later on in the journey during one of our many stops Mini Mitler refused to wait for one half of an old couple and just drove off leaving the poor wife alone on the bus. There was uproar from everyone but he still carried on.

Arrived in L.A. around 5pm. Lucky for me the coach stopped off in Hollywood rather than the downtown area (well rough). Arrived at the Banana Bungalow hostel ($20 for a dorm bed) at 7pm. Excellent free food laid out for all the guests and a good atmosphere here. Tomorrow time to explore L.A.

"Straight outta Compton.."

Woke up early today as I had an organised tour of LA to go on. I'm not staying here too long so its a quick fix (cost $50 for a 5 hour tour). First stop was the famous Hollywood Boulevard where all the stars have their names and hand prints in a star on the pavement. I looked at least a hundred stars looking for my heroes Laurel and Hardy but there wasn't time to check all 2000 of them. Saw the theatre where the Oscars used to be held. Very impressive with the very top stars leaving notes, signatures and handprints in the cement outside. To name a few; Jack Nicholson, Steven Spielberg, Henry Fonda.

Next was the famous Hollywood sign which was previously called Hollywoodland because the owners used it to advertise their land. When the city bought it changed to Hollywood. After that it was time to do some paparazzi style celebrity house gawking. I must have seen at least 50 celeb homes in Beverly Hills and Hollywood Hills. Here are some of them; Will Smith, Beck's and Posh, Tom Cruise, Marilyn Monroe, Alfred Hitchcock, Jim Carrey, Ozzy Osbourne's old house (now owned by Christina Aguilera). Then it was time to do some star spotting in the famous designer shopping streets of Rodeo drive. This is also where the hotel used in the film Pretty Woman was shot.

Didn't see any stars but the prices nearly gave me a heart attack (a pair of socks at D&G $180..sweet Jesus!). Next stop was the Santa Monica beach area where they shot Baywatch. All sorts of weird and wonderful people here; body builders in the outside Gold gym, hippies and beach bums begging for a spliff and buzzing in the sun, rollerblading women and dogs (no..the dogs weren't blading. LA folks aren't that bad) and the usual drunk bums. Last bit of the tour was a stroll down Sunset Strip where allot of the stars like to party.

Saw the flat where John Belushi died after a speedball and Johnny Depp's club the Viper room where the great actor River Phoenix died from the same. Also discovered where Britney and Paris party. Got back to the hostel pretty late in the afternoon and made an executive decision. I was to shave my head of hair ready for Central America where flea ridden hostels await. Went to barbers and got a number 3 all over (was nearly a number 1 but bottled it in the end).

Tomorrow its time to leave LA and catch a Greyhound to San Diego which will be my base for a couple of days so I can backup all my photos (before I lose the camera), do some well needed laundry and then its time to enter the spanish speaking territory of Mexico (shit...only managed to get to cd3 of my 8 spanish learning cd lesson....Aye Caramba est Sacre Bleu!!)

"California..California..here we come"

Had a great time at the LA Banana Bungalow hostel. Good crowd and cheap lodgings ($24 for a dorm bed) and sharing a 6 bed room with 5 Taiwanese chicks didn't prompt a single murmur of complaint from my lips (even though they chattered, sang and giggled all night long). But it was time to make tracks to San Diego my last stop in the US of A.

Got to the Greyhound terminal around 10 and booked a ticket for the 11am bus to San Diego ($16 and 3 hours journey time). I had an hour to kill so had a last walk down Hollywood Blvd and a last chance to find the elusive Laurel and Hardy star. After 45 minutes off searching I gave up and headed back to Greyhound. On my way back I glanced down and saw just by chance what I was looking for..the Stan Laurel star. I was well happy (would have liked to have seen Oliver Hardy's too but not sure if he's even got one).

Arrived in San Diego early afternoon and after a pretty uneventful bus ride (apart from a teenager behind my seat who was on her mobile for the whole journey talking to her 4 different boyfriends. Very funny to listen to). My first impressions of San Diego were good. Really hot, compact centre of the city (not too easy for me to get lost) and friendly people. A quick bus ride and I arrived at the Hostel Cat where I booked a dorm bed for 2 nights ($22 per night).

The evening was chore time; blog update, laundry, sowing and re-packing (I seem to spend allot of time doing this). Dinner was a quiet Taco place on Broadway. Back at the hostel had a chat with a girl called Christine from Chicago (really cute) and 2 fellahs from Devon called Beachy and Shawnie (funny guys). They had driven for 4 hours around San Diego trying find a way in. I was nearly crying with laughter when they told me the story. I had actually met 2 people with a worse sense of direction than me (Hurrah!).

Tomorrow a bit of sight seeing and maybe hit the beach.

"Wipeouttttttttt..."

Got an invite to tag along with Beachy and Shawnie to go to the beach so went along. I was in hysterics when I saw how they managed to get lost at every turn. What would normally be a 20 minute drive ended up being a 2 hour one. Well funny. I could see a pattern emerging, Beachy would be driving along and get to a junction or turnoff, he'd then ask Shawnie "should I go left here?" and Shawnie would reply "try it, I don't know, maybe" and we'd end up at the same road 5 or 6 times.

So it continued at every junction. Eventually we found the beach and chilled, sunbathed and swam all afternoon on Ocean Beach. Some really big waves, some even making me roll 4 times in the water with the power of them. Saw some gorgeous beach babes which we all tried to impress with our chalky white skin and well toned bodies but alas they all seemed to be blind (or we blinded them).

Rumour had it that there was a club and bar in town that sold beer for $1 (50p) a glass so that was the mission for tonight. As everyone knows in the US you need ID to get into any bar or club. We all made sure we had it but when we got to the bar (Moose's) Beachy realised instead of his driving licence he'd brought his Tesco's points card. I was in stitches as we tried to convince the doorman that the Tesco card is proof enough. After numerous refusals we headed back to pick up the proper ID. It was a good night and many beers we poured down my gob.

Beachy was rampant in trying to pull any girl in the club but sadly it wasn't his night. They played the usual R&B stuff which I hear at most clubs but all round it was good. Got back around 3am and after running riot around the dorms it was off to bed.

Tomorrow with a heavy heart (great place San Diego and really chilled people) I'm leaving the US and crossing into Mexico and more specifically Tijuana.

The US really surprised me in many ways. I tried to come here with an open mind about the Yanks in the beginning but early on had this feeling I wasn't going to like them. I was very wrong. In general they are very friendly and talkative. The exception for me being the New Yorkans. I suppose if I'd spent more time in New York it would have been different.

My favourite Americans are without a doubt the Tennesseans and the Californians. If there was one place I could live in the US it would be California. Friendly, chilled (apart from their driving), nice climate, very beach orientated and great food. Although I loved Memphis if I lived there I'd turn into a bar stool..just too many tempting bars and clubs.

Same goes for Las Vegas, great holiday city and I really enjoyed it but I'd blow the dough like there's no tomorrow if I stayed too long. A few disappointments were: Nashville (not that much to see here and when me and Naomi walked around the bars there was an uneasiness felt..her being Japanese. Just didn't feel comfortable.

The Great Smoky Mountains were a bit of a let down. I thought they'd be more spectacular and impressive. In hindsight it may have been different if we'd actually stayed there for a few days. Did try but it was all booked up. If I went back to the States I'd spend more time in New York (just to make sure I'm not wrong), San Francisco and definitely explore more of the southern states like Alabama and Florida.

Final thought...it would have been impossible to see everything me and Naomi saw without a car. Everything is just spread out everywhere. So a car is a must (my opinion anyway). Budget-wise I went well over budget. I had set aside £900 (£30 per day) for the month but had in fact spent £1,300 (£44 per day) altogether. Not bad though considering I hadn't taken the car and petrol into account. As far as what I'm glad I bought with me goes (things that were indispensable) they are in this order: Naomi (master navigator and Motel spotter), sleeping mask and ear plugs (would have had no sleep in hostels or buses without them), Swiss Army knife and universal USB and mains charger. Silk sleeping sheet was a disaster (I'll give it one more chance in Mehiko).

The blog entries from here will be uploaded weekly from next entry. It's way too expensive ($10 an hour in some places) and time consuming any other way. Also, all 450 (i think) photos will be uploaded to view (really, if you have nothing better to do check them) soon and will put the link in next entry.

*Note added Dec 2007. The car hire company hit me with a £300 bill for car damages (DOHHHH!!!!) and with little or no hope of fighting it in another country I bit the bullet.